Pin It
Prada SS15 Beauty 2
Gemma Ward (IMG) backstage at Prada SS15Photography Lea Colombo

Yadim charts this season's iconic make-up looks

From graphic eyes to 90s skin and 70s rebel girls, the renowned make-up artist and Dazed collaborator counts down his favourite beauty trends of SS15

TextYadim

Having worked with some of the most respected names in fashion – including on the SS15 shows of Opening Ceremony, DKNY, and Haider Ackermann – Dazed contributor Yadim has managed to carve out a name for himself as one of the most exciting make-up artists in the industry. Aside from some more extreme transformations in Paris and New York, featuring latex masks and mouths covered in tape, beauty was used more subtly this season to sculpt faces and change models into muses, with artists often seeking inspiration from decades past. With the shows now behind us, Yadim takes us through the six key make-up trends that defined SS15.

ARCHI-TEXTURE – THE NEW CONTOUR

"From NY to London, to Milan and Paris, at many shows there was a fresh, modern take on contouring. Instead of just using dark and light, shadow and highlight, there was a new approach to this timeless beauty technique. Using texture to add depth and definition. Matte vs. wet, velvet vs. gloss, this is the new way to sculpt and shape the face – without looking like there's too much make-up."

See: Haider Ackermann, Thakoon and Maison Martin Margiela.

LIP EXTREMITIES – ALL OR NOTHING

"This trend refers to the contrast in lip shades seen during the SS15 show season. Lips were either bold with bright shocks of rich saturated colour, or washed-out paled nudes that were often achieved by the simple use of concealer to bring down the girls' natural lip colour." 

See: Dolce & Gabbana, Chalayan, Damir Doma and Moschino.

BARE MINIMUM – 90s SKIN

"This look is all about the raw beauty of the girl. Fresh scrubbed skin using moisturiser and little else, with only slight perfecting of spots and redness. In some cases even under eye circles were kept, so as to use the natural tone around the eyes as shadow. It's less about adding on, and more about stripping away and using the natural elements of each girl to their benefit. A slight ode to grunge made modern with a focus on healthy gorgeous skin."

See: Christopher Kane, Kenzo and Viktor and Rolf.

GRAPH-ISM – LINE OUTSIDE THE BOX

"There were a slew of shows this season where graphic liner made a reappearance, although not in the most conventional of ways. This trend is about using liner in unique or surprising ways and shapes. Sometimes used very minimally with a strict black line just inside the waterline, in other instances the idea went to extremes, creating mad shapes, geometric structure and even "outside the box" colours as liner around eyes."

See: Fendi and Prada.

REBEL YELL – 70s REVIVAL

"This trend is all about encapsulating the rebellious spirit of the punk rock movement that began in the 70s and went on to define a generation. Sometimes it was literal and clearly referential to the era, while at other shows the statements were more subtle and merely captured the anti-conformist attitude of punk rock through a rebellious wing or the use of unconventional materials."

See: Saint Laurent, Marni and Tod’s.

PRETTY DIRTY – NEXT DAY BEAUTY

"This is makeup that's been lived in. At many shows the beauty looks called for makeup that was a remnant of the night before. Some looks even required actually applying eye makeup then using a wet wipe or makeup remover to smudge and sort of destroy it. This left behind a cool, effortless looking girl that doesn't spend hours in front of the mirror. There's a pragmatism to this idea that we're seeing more and more in beauty. Real women don't spend too much time getting ready in the morning, nor do they have a professional make-up artist to go to every time they go out. There's a realism to this approach that feels modern yet cool enough to appeal to almost anyone." 

See: Anthony Vaccarello, Emilio Pucci, Opening Ceremony and Damir Doma.