Dolce & Gabbana SS15

Initial reaction:

Just when you thought there wasn't a facet about Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's beloved Sicily that the duo hadn't mined for their collections, then comes a history lesson about the island's turbulent past. Dolce & Gabbana looked at a two hundred year time period between 1516 and 1713 when Sicily was ruled by Spain. All the better for Dolce & Gabbana to indulge in what they do best – thematic flamboyance that's gilded and embroidered in excess. For SS15 it was an abundance of black lace, carnations, Castilian gold and bejewelled detailing that nodded to Spain – but they also chimed in with their own Sicilian female ideals.  

Dolls house:  

Barbie took centre stage at Moschino the other night, and a few of the models at the Dolce & Gabbana show came out with ornate satin lined cases, containing a doll wearing a mini replica outfit. They weren't bags, but carried like a grown up version of a child dragging their doll along the ground. Some said they were like the tourist souvenir dolls you get in Spain, wearing national costumes. Or was it a reference to the way Dolce & Gabbana like to play dress up with their women? The frowers and clients certainly turned out in their droves wearing head to toe D&G in doll-like fashion. Whatever they meant, it was a fun bit of kitsch to feed the Insta-hungry.  

Stand out pieces:

A pink satin matador jacket with black coil detailing and the gem encrusted jeans, which are a break away from the collection's flamenco queens and razz-ma-tazz looks. Then there's the tap short finale – this time they're in red satin and embroidered with flowers and worn with crisp white shirts.