Anthony Vaccarello has been simmering and smouldering on the first day of Paris Fashion Week for a few years now, but the collection shown for SS15 felt like Vaccarello was taking a real hands-on ownership of his brand. We had a sweatshirt with his logo on it for the first time, parts of his name – as well as the words "Spring Summer" – were were worked into the shortest of dresses and skirts, revealing the height of the thigh as well as an even racier triangle across the front. A metal "V" even made it on to the front of a black jumpsuit. The first half of the collection took a slight nautical turn with anchor shaped metalware, seersucker striping and loose cowl front shirts. But it was the second half that stayed with you. Gimme an "A" and a "V" What does it spell? That Anthony Vaccarello is no longer a brand that's bubbling up from under the surface.
Caribou's euphoric leading track "Can't Do Without You" from their forthcoming LP Our Love – direct, to the point and seductive – pretty much why women fall hard for Vaccarello judging by the amount of Ant Vac thigh-flashing going on in the frow.
Say my name, say my name:
When asked why he chose this moment to spell out his logo loud and clear in big graphic monochromatic lettering as a novel way of structuring the body, Vaccarello simply shrugged and said "It's just time. It feels right. I want to show my identity." Some would say his identity was born from the moment he decided to create dresses to reveal erogenous zones nobody knew existed (Anja Rubik's hip-high split anyone?). But with Vaccarello buoyed with confidence after a successful collection for Versus in New York, it seems that this new gen king of cling is ready to step it up and make a shout about what his brand is all about.