Gemma Ward makes a comeback in a folkloric 70s collection, set in a psychedelic purple desert to the sounds of Genesis P-Orridge
The build up:
Staring at undulating purple sand dunes from the deep aubergine carpeted seating, the audience spent a good half an hour getting spaced out to a sci-fi whirring soundtrack that only built up the anticipation. After all that, you certainly didn't expect 70s denim to come charging down the runway followed by Victoriana redux blouses worn with full leather skirts. Miuccia Prada then drummed it into you that Gunne Sax-esque patchwork floral dresses with raw frayed edges are what we will be feeling next season, and there's utter conviction in that – especially when paired with granny nylon socks (both nude and floral printed) and the chunkiest platform Mary Janes. (Expect these to be clopping in front of streetstyle photographers' paths next season.) Darkly romantic, beautiful with imperfections and bristling of the past without literally referencing tropes of the decade – we were totally convinced that we all needed to look at the seventies through Miuccia-tinted glasses.
It might have sounded like a psych rock classic, but it was in fact a track called “Kiss Me” by British experimental musician Genesis P-Orridge who formed Psychic TV in the 80s, when this track was recorded. The postmodern retro-gazing nature of the track was perfect for accompanying clothes that remixed that period of late 60s optimism and the folkloric styles of the early 70s into something for the now and the present.
Two "oldies" but goldies were featured as Gemma Ward opened the show in a white stitched black denim trenchcoat and Lara Stone closed it in a kimono silk trapeze coat. Ward in particular was the real surprise casting, already eliciting waves of excitement across social media. After six years away from the catwalk and a foray into acting, there couldn't have been a bigger show to stage a comeback. Embodying the feeling of the familiar and the new, Ward and Stone took to Miuccia's cut 'n' paste retro tinged collection as though time had never passed.