Kick the January blues with this season’s AW15 menswear collections: a gender-blurring juggernaut of bold print, fresh cuts and innovation. Britain’s menswear is officially booming, and London Collections: Men is kicking off the season – from tomorrow until Monday, 70 designers will exhibit in showrooms, and 37 will have spots on the official schedule. Over the coming weeks, prepare to hold back the tears at Craig Green, and expect the unexpected as Hood By Air touches down at Pitti Uomo in Florence. Here’s our don’t-miss guide to the shows ahead.
This season, support initiative Fashion East welcomes Grace Wales Bonner, who impressed Dazed back in June with her 70s blaxploitation inspired Central Saint Martins graduate collection. “I have tried to mix couture techniques with specific African crafts,” explains the burgeoning designer. “That is definitely something I am developing more this season.” Marques’Almeida will also be showing at Fashion East for the third time, hot off the back of their win at the British Fashion Awards. Over at MAN, Rory Parnell Mooney has joined the line-up, after a powerful graduate collection inspired by European rioters, exploring ecclesiastical garments and the ritual of clothing. Liam Hodges and Nicomede Talavera are also returning for a second season.
2014 was the year that the Hood By Air cult really hit the ground running, as Shayne Oliver shook up fashion week with Perspex shackles and leather suiting, helped by a hyped-up fanbase which includes the likes of Mykki Blanco, boychild, and Readers’ 100 queen Hari Nef, both of whom walked in the show. Having shown in both New York and Paris during womenswear, before returning to MoMa and teaming up with Arca and Jesse Kanda, Oliver is now taking his cult troupe to Pitti Uomo in Florence. Expect straps and shorts, bold lettering, loud music.