“We’re making it normal to be abnormal,” says fashion’s cyberpunk Oliver of his tribe of Hood by Air disciples, which range from Evian Christ to CL of 2NE1. “We have our own voice.” Forever drawing on subcultures for inspiration, this season he took his tribe on the road for an epic three-part celebration known as “Ego, Superego and Id”. It took him from New York to a gutted-out Paris office space, eventually culminating in a full-blown extravaganza at MoMA featuring collaborators Arca, Jesse Kanda and Total Freedom.
To celebrate Shayne Oliver's place in the Dazed 100, we take a look at five definitive HBA moments that helped put him there:
A$AP ROCKY CLOSES THEIR NYFW DEBUT
Post-gender performance artist boychild was also in attendance, but it was the rapper’s appearance at the finale of their AW13 show that helped put HBA on the map and set their boundary-pushing agenda.
THE SS14 SKATE PARK RUNWAY
Forever eschewing the standard runway show or presentation, the capsule collection for their collaboration with knitwear brand Corgi was showcased in the Selfridges car park-turned-skater hang-out.
THE BALL CULTURE-INSPIRED AW14 SHOW
Embracing a pivotal part of NYC’s queer history, AW14 looked to the city’s iconic ballroom culture. “It brought me back to the days when I was in the ballroom scene; how raw that was and finding every possible way of getting dolled up,” Oliver said.
THE LVMH PRIZE
Although not winners (they missed out to fellow Dazed 100-er Thomas Tait) Hood by Air pocketed 100,000€ in prize money at the inaugural award supporting young fashion designers.
THE THREE-PART SS15 COLLECTION
It was a three-part extravaganza that spanned continents – HBA’s SS15 trilogy brought Mykki Blanco to MoMA, presented in a Paris office space and took a dog down the runway all in one season.
Twitter: @ShayneHBA | Instagram: @ShayneOliver
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