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Backstage at Hood By Air AW14Shot by Lea Colombo

Hood by Air AW14

Shayne Oliver shakes up NYFW with shirtless vogueing to the sounds of snarling dogs

Initial reaction:

Glamour without borders. Inspired by ballroom culture, hair and make-up emphasized the ritual, dramatic aspect of personal adornment. New fabrications with an emphasis on suede and leather elevated the idea of what HBA clothes look like. Of course, we still saw thick-soled space boots, tons of zip-away pants and jackets, and the classic HBA block shirts and signature butt flaps. 

Viral moment:

For the finale, shirtless models came out and performed an incredible vogueing sequence. The same exciting effect as Rick Owens' step teams, but in this case, Shayne Oliver is a member of the scene, and vogues with incredible artistry himself. 

Breaking boundaries:

Young/Old: Grey wigs on male models wearing cropped leather shirts, revealing potent six-pack abs. 

Male/Female: HBA is so fluid, to even mention gender is to miss the point entirely.

Day/Night: HBA doesn't follow a day-to-evening progression. It seems t-shirts and full-leather jackets and pants are welcome any hour. Why restrict it?


A jarring mix that combined the sounds of terrifying, snarling dogs, a sample of Beyonce's "End of Time" and a Moonwalkers track "10,000 Screaming Faggots." The sound was not unlike what you'd expect out of the soundtrack to a Ryan Tracartin video.

Quote of the show:

"It’s a new level of HBA: a raw beauty and rugged glamour. It brought me back to the days when I was in the ballroom scene, how raw that was and finding every possible way of getting dolled up. I recreated that in the collection through suede, leathers and shearlings. I wanted to do something what was new in a non-new context." Shayne Oliver