Initial reaction:
Amongst an intimate Paris audience of no more than fifty people, Gosha Rubchinskiy made his runway debut. In a city built on the reputation of longstanding fashion houses – but in need of new talent – it marked a moment of rebirth. The atmosphere was how Comme des Garçons’ first show in Paris in 1981 must have felt: the beginning of something special, something big. Indeed, Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe have been early supporters of Rubchinskiy, both in stocking his collections at Dover Street Market and in terms of production. Their collaboration represents what fashion is about – cult figures guiding the next generation of young designers.
Street sensibility:
The collection itself was developed, firmly establishing Rubchinskiy’s own unique take on ready-to-wear. He maintained his very street sensibility, which could be felt in t-shirts with his name marked in Russian on the sleeves and chests, a recurring alien print and in shoelaces worn as belts. Whilst the collection contained more high-end pieces like an amazing red leather jacket, it was worn in contrast with high-waisted, washed out grey tracksuit bottoms. Patchwork squares of different textures and prints detailed the backs of jackets, whilst shirts were made up of a clash of tartans and checks, reinventing the old into the new.
Boys of Moscow:
A mix of models and street-cast boys that looked as though they'd been plucked from the skate parks of Moscow. Rubchinskiy is also a talented photographer, and the show was like seeing the boys that appear throughout his photo archive coming to life on the runway.
Last season, Rubchinskiy debuted his skate-inspired collection exclusively on Dazed. See it below:
