Postmodern prose with Scarlett Johansson, keeping up with Kendall Jenner, and tearing it up with Rick Owens’ runway dance troupe – catch up on 2014’s best fashion films
This year, Dazed has gone full steam ahead with film content, whether celebrating 2014’s most important fashion exhibitions, capturing rap legend Nicki Minaj as a domestic goddess on our cover shoot and creating a viral, Mean Girls inspired clip with Dazed 100 star Kendall Jenner. Take a look through ten of our cinematic highlights below, and check out more fashion films here.
To celebrate the opening of The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier at the Barbican – arguably the fashion exhibition of 2014, Dazed commissioned a high-camp romp through the French couturier’s archive. Performers Dinah Lux, Jonbenet Blonde, Tschan Andrews and Rodent DeCay flirt, vogue and playfight in Madonna-esque conical corsets, sailor caps, embroidered leotards and pin-stripe suiting to an 80s-style dance mix with a breathy French voiceover by Father.
“Smile and others will smile back. Smile to show how transparent, how candid you are. Smile if you have nothing to say.” Scarlett Johansson quotes Baudrillard’s postmodern, dystopian witticisms in a toilet cubical in Paris, recording the audio for Benjamin Alexander Huseby’s film, shot with the humble iPhone. Despite the recycled words, as the rest of her cover interview with Tim Noakes shows, she has plenty to say.
Cult model Kirsty Hume plays a private investigator assuming the identity of another woman in Luke Gilford’s dreamily-shot but suspenseful ‘trailer for a film that doesn't exist’. Styled by Dazed’s Emma Wyman in the futuristic glamour of Proenza Schouler’s SS14 collection, Hume roams around a large, elegant home, seen on a balcony wearing one of the metallic breast plates the designers created with an electroplating plant in Pennsylvania that also makes parts for spacecrafts.
When Raf Simons hooked up with Sterling Ruby to create a menswear collection, it wasn’t to be a straightforward fashion-eats-art franchise. The two friends created a one-off brand together, inspired by their punk-loving adolescence, sew-on band patches and a penchant for finding themselves in “new interzones”. Ben Toms’ film captures the cut-n-paste aesthetic in grainy VHS style, with a driving, distorted beat by Pandora’s Jukebox.
Rick Owens sent shockwaves through the industry last September when he replaced the usual marching line of ‘standard’ models with a stomping, grimacing troupe of athletic American steppers known collectively as Team Vicious. Dazed brought the performers to The Westway in NYC, a former strip club and regular haunt of Mykki Blanco, for a repeat performance under darkness and disco lights, captured by renowned youth and subculture photographer Danielle Levitt.
Maddie Ziegler pirouetted into pop consciousness with her explosive dance performance in Sia’s “Chandelier” music video. In a blonde wig and body suit, the 11-year-old dance prodigy’s expressive interpretation of Ryan Heffington’s choreography saw her become an international celebrity. In Jeff Bark’s film, Ziegler is watched by two dark figures as she performs on a rotating platform of black foliage, styled by Dazed’s Robbie Spencer in AW14 Dior, Miu Miu, Alexander McQueen, Proenza Schouler and more.
Photographer Lorenzo Vitturi delved into the surreal world of the obsessive collector for his summer art residency with Dazed. Vitturi took Maison Martin Margiela's SS14 artisanal collection to Dalston's Ridley Road market, where the incredible, rare archive fabrics of the garments and found-object embellished headdresses were set against fruit stalls and pound shops. The shoot was captured on film by Amy Gwatkin and evocatively scored by sound designer Henry Law.
London-based Argentinian model and stylist Tati Cotliar confesses her love of unlovable fashion in the launch episode of Dazed’s new film series, Closet Case. From playing dress-up with her mother’s clothes as a child to fronting campaigns for Vivienne Westwood, Valentino and Prada, Cotliar has collected an enviable stash of fash trash. “I’m not embarrassed to be embarrassed” she says, disclosing her fetish for collecting hundreds of “uncool” items like bumbags.
Is this the real life? Is this her Minajesty? Hailed as “the definitive hip-hop fantasy figure of our generation” by Phoebe Lovatt in the accompanying longread interview, Nicki Minaj is cast in a twisted domestic setting for Jeff Bank's double cover shoot. In this behind-the-scenes film, “Pills N Potions” plays as we follow Minaj from baloney-mayo sandwich-making in a prim Chanel skirt-suit, to sultry poolside posing in lingerie and a Miu Miu jacket.
“Kendall Jenner will never be a real model.” “Kendall Jenner is a spoilt brat.” Having exploded onto fashion's biggest catwalks in 2014, Kardashian clan member Jenner claimed the top spot in the Dazed 100 and took playful aim at her would-be detractors in Columbine Goldsmith’s short film. In true Mean Girls style, the model compiles a Burn Book inspired by the many spiteful missives fired at her from across the internet. Haters gon’ hate.
In her Dazed 100 cover shoot by Ben Toms, Jenner played a host of different characters – styled by Robbie Spencer in Tom Ford, Junya Watanabe, Simone Rocha, Marc Jacobs and more. Toms’s glitchy, layered and distorted film takes its cue from Warhol’s screen tests, and captures the shoot with VHS retro-tech effects.