Rick Owens SS14

Initial reaction:

What has Rick unearthed now?

Performance:

An army of all-female step-dance crews transformed the catwalk show into a loud, aggressive yet gripping performance. Leather stretched against muscular thigh, and Owens’ signature draping undulated under the rhythmic stamping.

Set:

A vast, stark hangar with polished concrete floor and a steel staircase from which the dancers descended, and Owens too for his bow.

Atmosphere:

With a space as wide as this, a standard pacing line of models was not to be expected. Yet the front row recalled in surprise (or was it horror?) when the step-dancers made their presence known. Vine and Instagram were instantly flooded, and Twitter debated into the night about what it all meant.

Stand out looks:

Because this was about the clothes. A jersey draped dress, in black, with a sweeping sash of leather, and a string of black pom poms at the hem that wobbled violently to the beat. Almost comically girly in this context.

Silhouette:

Jersey and leather stretched over the broad shoulders, torsos and thighs of the athletic dancers. Was this a feminist sizest statement? No. This was Owens in a cult context; a uniform for all bodies.

Unexpected details:

The straitjacket contrast trim detailing on tunics, and the nun’s habit-like headdresses. Add to that the stern and aggressive expressions the ‘models’ pulled at their photo call.

Shoes:

Jazz-shoe soled trainers – made for stamping – in black, charcoal and white. Leather cuffs around the ankle emulated leather accents in the look.

Final looks:

A series of the purest white pieces closed the collection, with the most beautiful design statements of all: finely laser cut dots and dashes, architectural capes and almost cyber funneled, stand-up collars.

Left us wanting:

To clear our savings, buy a Rick Owens leather jacket, and go stompin’.