Now that SS15menswear is over, Dazed fashion director Robbie Spencer looks back over the season and selects his favourite shows, looks and pieces, to create a definitive guide.
A collection that thrived on a sense of duality, playing on the balance between the primitive and the futuristic. Models – clad in silver space boots and some covered entirely in body paint – were almost other-worldly, yet dressed in tapestries that recalled prehistoric cave paintings.
What happens when there is no enemy left to fight? Exploring the disparate feelings of a soldier post conflict, Miller took utilitarian ‘one size fits all’ garments – in homage to the demob suits given to demobilized troops – and adorned them with memorial floral wreaths.
This season was very much an exercise in pushing the boundaries of the preconceived silhouettes of a man's body. There were scooped necks, which revealed the models’ clavicles – an erogenous zone often ignored in menswear – alongside unitards and knitted waistbands.
A reimagining of Japanese workwear through patchwork denim, bold graphic characters and batik prints, with black, slicked back hairpieces creating a look somewhere between sumo wrestler and Manga classic Astro Boy.
The show played with the animalistic, from the tusks that extended, jester-like, from the toes of winklepickers, to the leopard print fabric spliced into suiting. The print appeared in militaristic jackets with gold-buttoned cuffs, and netting – from thin khaki rope to more stylised patterned fabric – covered garments.
A pillar of clean, minimalist strength. While everything was structured and precise, the silhouettes felt light and graceful – not unlike the Roman classicism that had set off the collection.
We've spent the last few seasons watching Green come into his own, but this (his first solo show) was purist poetry in motion, and had the entire audience struck by its unnerving beauty. Everything was stripped away – colour palettes, fabrics and textures – to allow for drama in the movement.
The collection’s ethos was one of disruption and spontaneity, pieces thrown off balance through their construction. Disparate elements were brought playfully together, as trousers (which were left out of the equation entirely on two looks) became hybrids with one leg patched denim, the other fleece cropped above the knee.
This season was about throwing things off balance – garments were cut at the bias revealing exposed shoulders (an area of a mans body too often ignored in menswear, but for Anderson this is his canvas for 'seductive' exploration).
 backstage at Rick Owens SS15)
 backstage at Maison Martin Margiela SS15)
