Initial reaction:

A reimagining of Japanese workwear through patchwork denim, bold graphic characters and batik prints.

How it was worn:

With black, slicked back hairpieces creating a look somewhere between sumo wrestler and Manga classic Astro Boy. Models walked in square-toed leather Zōri, and eyebrows were a theatrical dark black, recalling the make-up of Kabuki – a traditional art form that combines dance and drama.

Myth and mystery:

Junya Watanabe is one of fashion’s most elusive myth makers, and there is always a great deal of mystery surrounding his references. SS15’s soundtrack – the laboured grunts of sumo wrestlers rehearsing, which turned into jazz – provided something of a clue, indicating an inspiration found in the discipline and ritual of both the sport and Japanese culture at large.

Last season, Watanabe mixed punk plaids with English heritage. See it below: