...and other fashion news you missed
In news that came as a thunderclap to the Dua Lipa fandom, H&M has announced a collaboration with Mugler. Set to launch this spring, H&Mugler is the first major link-up since Simone Rocha’s capsule collection in 2021 and compounds a longstanding tradition of fashion designers allying themselves with regular people who shop in Westfield (among them Karl Lagerfeld, Balmain, and Versace). But where so many of these partnerships have serviced a niche micro-audience of fashion insiders desperate to get their hands on cheap Comme des Garçons and Margiela, the decision to collaborate with Mugler is evidence of Casey Cadwallader’s mainstream appeal; the high street is pretty much indebted to the designer’s vision of cut-out bodysuits so beloved by pop stars.
In other news this week, London Fashion Week came to a close with JW Anderson, Dilara Fındıkoğlu, Central Saint Martin’s graduate showcase, and Daniel Lee’s big debut at Burberry. Diesel kicked things off at Milan Fashion Week with a colossal pile of Durex condoms, while Fran Drescher and Siouxsie Sioux gave birth to a lovechild at Moschino. Elsewhere, Jonathan Anderson’s future in fashion came under threat by Fashion Nova, while one livid London designer waged war on UPS. For everything else you may have missed, click through the gallery below.
ADD TO BASKET(BALL)
This week, Olivier Rousteing unveiled his second collaboration with Puma. His first partnership drew inspiration from the world of boxing but the designer has now turned his attention to basketball – designing fit-for-purpose sneakers with gilded Balmain tongues and off-duty uniforms comprising t-shirts, caps, and varsity jackets. “Over here, we’re all big fans of le basket and French people are extremely dedicated to their favourite American teams,” the designer explained. “Plus, honestly, is there any group of athletes more fashionable than basketball players?” Click here to see more from the collection, as well as its Skylar Diggins-Smith and Kyle Kuzma-fronted campaign.
OLLY SHINDER POPS UP IN DOVER STREET MARKET
Olly Shinder eschewed London Fashion Week for Dover Street Market this season, showcasing his “feral, animalistic” collection in the store’s basement alongside two gauze-panelled boards emblazoned with spectral portraits from his SS23 lookbook (shot by Wolfgang Tillmans). “The installation is about mimicking the feelings of the collection and turning it into something 3D,” he says. “I like the idea of wood and sheer fabrics and details of metals coming together because they speak the same language.” Head down to Haymarket to see Shinder’s couture-accented workwear and stay tuned for his AW23 collection, which launches next week.
TIMBERLAND TURNS 50
Kick-starting a full year of 50th-anniversary celebrations, Timberland has called on six creatives to reimagine its iconic shoe. Dubbed Future73, the team will reinterpret the brand’s signature 6-inch boot with an accompanying clothing capsule set to launch between March and October. Edison Chen, Samuel Ross, Suzanne Oude Hengel, Nina Chanel Abney, Humberto Leon, and Christopher Raeburn are all on the roster, twisting and exaggerating Timberland’s most precious creation to their own whims. Stay tuned for all seven drops later this year.
TOM OF FINLAND GETS TRASHY
Perhaps the hardest working estate in the arts, the Tom of Finland Foundation has just collaborated on a limited-edition capsule with Trashy Clothing. Debuted as part of its SS23 collection, the link-up has spawned five pieces emblazoned with Touko Laaksonen’s gleeful depictions of gay sex. It’s a “dedication to protecting, preserving, documenting, and educating the public about erotic art and erotic artists,” says designer Shukri Lawrence. Click here to see more.