Meet the livid London designer waging war against UPS

The likelihood of a UPS delivery arriving on time is, at the best of times, just as reliable as transporting an item via pigeon post. But the probability of successful shipping plummets even further when that parcel is being held at customs because it happens to include a quilted gimp suit, a blood-splattered gown made from ten tonnes of tule, or a face-obscuring helmet fixed with latex ram horns. That’s precisely what had happened to Qiqi Yuan ahead of his AW23 collection at London Fashion Week, which drew inspiration from the subcultural spirit bubbling beneath the Chinese mainstream. “The theme was ‘villains’,” he says. “The queers, the punks, and the goths who rebel against popular culture. We need those people to challenge the status quo and break the rules.” 

It’s perhaps ironic, then, that an actual villain should emerge in the United Parcel Service – and even more ironic that in a show dedicated to all those who disobey the rules, Yuan should dress models in a calico sheet spray-painted with “FUCK UPS DRESSES DIDN’T ARRIVE”. So much for embracing the antihero! “We only had three days before the show to complete seven outfits, so graffiti was the quickest solution,” he says. “I actually think that was very forgiving. At least I gave UPS more exposure!” With models sitting on the front row, screaming, and sulking down the runway in monstrous, fetish-derived creations, the whole show was an attempt at breaking with politeness. Below, we catch up with Qiqi Yuan of Buerlangma on his venal AW23 collection and the chaos that lead him to pledge war on UPS. 

Hey Qiqi! Can you tell us a little about the collection? What themes did you want to put forward?

Qiqi Yuan: The show was about ‘villains’ and their relationship with fashion. The queers, the punks, and the goths are all part of a ‘villainous‘ subculture, rebelling against the mainstream. It’s an attitude, a spirit and I think the visual arts need villains to challenge the status quo and break the rules. That's why being a villain is so important – the masks I’ve used represent change, multifacetedness, and disguise, which are all connected to rebelliousness. This is just an idea and its significance lies in its potential to be realised. But I'm taking the first step with this show.

We spotted Ashnikko wearing a piece of yours during London Fashion Week but do you design for a particular person in mind?

Qiqi Yuan: When conceiving my AW23 show, I imagined all my friends as models, but if I had to choose a muse, it would be Lady Gaga – the ultimate villain queen.

So what happened with UPS? Can you talk us through the drama?

Qiqi Yuan: We used FedEx and UPS to ship our clothes and they both arrived at UK customs around the same time. FedEx's packages were cleared quickly because they communicated actively with customs but UPS was very inefficient. We tried everything to urge them to resolve the issue, making at least 100 phone calls and trying to contact them on social media, but they never responded. All they said was “wait”. The boxes finally arrived the day after the show ended…

The show was called “Do It Like A Villain” and seems to be about embracing and forgiving people’s villainous side. Do you think saying “FUCK UPS” was very forgiving?

Qiqi Yuan: Another purpose of this collection is to break away from political correctness, exactness, and perfection. Our inner villainous and rebellious side needs to be accepted, even transformed into creative energy. That's why I think writing ‘FUCK UPS’ is very forgiving – at least I gave them more exposure!

Why did you respond to the chaos with a graffiti dress? 

Qiqi Yuan: There was no time. We only had three days before the show to complete seven outfits, so graffiti was the quickest solution.

Where do you draw the line with embracing villainy? What won't you forgive someone for doing?

Qiqi Yuan: Being a villainous person doesn’t necessarily mean harming others. The power of rebellion and evil should be used to fight against greater evils and massive injustices. I wouldn’t forgive someone for stealing from a small shop on the street because that directly harms someone else, but I will allow someone to steal from a chain supermarket because that doesn’t harm an individual. In fact, I actively support that behaviour because prices in the UK are so frustratingly high!

It wasn’t the only surprise that emerged on the runway: people got up from the audience and started screaming, too. Why do you like to utilise these kinds of stunts?

Qiqi Yuan: Because I think it’s something a villain might do. That scream was meant to wake up anyone who was on their phone so they could focus and experience the show.

Should you perhaps use DHL next time?

Qiqi Yuan: No. Next time I’ll just bring the clothes myself because I don't want ‘FUCK DHL’ to appear in the collection, too.