Thanks to the internet, years and years of fashion history is available to anyone who is interested in seconds. While on the plus side it means that there is a mountain of inspiration at our fingertips, it also means that any uncredited references are picked up on immediately.

As is the case with Gucci, following its Cruise show in Florence last week. Of the 115-strong look collection, there was one outfit that gained particular attention – look 33 to be specific – which those in the know immediately identified as looking very similar to a jacket made by Harlem outfitter Dapper Dan (or Daniel Day) in the 80s. Among them was Olympic gold medal winner Diane Dixon, who owned the original version – and posted comparison pictures with the caption “Bish stole my look”. The brand isn’t the first to take inspiration from the 80s designer, with Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones citing him as an inspiration for the bootleg vibes of the AW17 collection.

In Gucci’s case, the ensemble in question consisted of a zip-up fur gilet with large puffy sleeves printed with the Gucci monogram. Dixon’s (made in 1989) used the Louis Vuitton monogram instead – the French house was less than thrilled, and following a number of legal battles with the luxury brands he had reappropriated, Dapper Dan designer had to close his business in 1992.

Last night, Gucci responded with a representative telling the New York Times that the collection was a continuation of creative director Alessandro Michele’s exploration of popular culture and that the look was an homage rather than reappropriation. As for whether the brand has spoken to the original designer, they are waiting to hear back.

“Alessandro is interested in a collaboration with Daniel Day that would celebrate the influence his creations had on fashion and hip hop culture in the 80s.” So, could a Gucci x Dapper Dan collab be heading to a boutique near you? Watch this space. 

Read our feature on Dapper Dan here.