From Christopher Shannon's original emos to Moschino's acid ravers, we round off menswear's new troops and their chosen soundtracks
This LC:M season was all about taking sides: from Nasir Mazhar's street army and an exclusive track from Skepta to Jeremy Scott's acid ravers at Moschino, tearing it up to 90s trance band Age of Love – these SS15 troops come complete with soundtracks. In an industry where it's not about who you are but who you're with... go on, take your clique.
NASIR MAZHAR’S GRIME ARMY
For SS15, Mazhar’s army stormed the catwalk (and the streets) to the sounds of a one-off mash-up from legendary MC Skepta. While the collection was all about toning it down, Skepta's track – the product of his and Mazhar's Red Bull Catwalk Studio collab – boomed the designer’s name over a heavy grime beat for an exclusive mix on par with the designer's bad-ass attitude and street-cred kids.
MOSCHINO’S ACID RAVERS
Jeremy Scott’s Moschino SS15 menswear debut paid homage to the 90s rave scene through his highly infectious, pop-culture filled world. Strobe-worthy smileys, flags from all corners and Coca Cola labels layered across everything from two-piece suits, mesh skirts and beach shorts, were styled on dreadlocked models who moved in true rave kid style, to the self-titled track by Age of Love, “The Age of Love”.
CRAIG GREEN’S POETRY CIRCLE
Green's stripped back “silent protest” saw the designer trade in the colour, fabric and texture of his lo-fi opulent AW14 show for poetic drama and movement. As models padded down the catwalk in barefeet, fisherman-style trousers and white-sheeted structures behind their heads, Enya’s “Caribbean Blue” echoed through the room, allowing Green’s purist poetry – as opposed to a brash, stand-out statement – to take center stage.
CHRISTOPHER SHANNON’S ORIGINAL EMOS
For SS15, Shannon reminded us of a time before bands like My Chemical Romance, heavy guy-liner and bad kitchen-scissor cut fringes plagued the emo music scene. In an ode to the sullen 90’s teenager, Shannon’s models swaggered to the sound of 808 State vs UB40’s 1993 track “One in Ten” as if they'd stepped off the pages of Adrienne Salinger's 1995 In My Room series. As with all moody teens, what lies beneath those snarky minds and eye-rolls matter most, and a remarkably upbeat tune gave way to a much darker meaning: “Nobody knows me but I'm always there / Statistical reminder of a world that doesn't care.”
ASTRID ANDERSEN’S SUMO WRESTLERS
This season, Andersen drew inspiration from the sensitivity and fragility of the sumo wrestler with sunset-saturated kimono robes – easily undone with a single stride – mawashi (the sumo's belt) inspired dress-slash-tops that covered torsos and headwear emblazoned with Andersen's name. While the sport originated in Japan, Andersen chose Fatima Al Qadiri's song “Shanzhai” – a Mandarin parody of Sinéad O'Connor's 1990 track “Nothing Compares 2 U” (originally written by Prince) – as the soundtrack for her wrestling team's debut.