From consumer-driven riots at Chanel to front-row selfies, here are the top talking points of fashion week
Over the next seven days, in the aftermath of the AW14 we'll be giving you a round-up of our top fashion week moments, from soundtracks and set design to stand out looks, as selected by the Dazed fashion team. Today, Dazed editor Isabella Burley picks out the most talked about moments across AW14. We take a look back at front row riots and looting Chanel, 24 hours in fast fashion at Moschino and the Giles selfie spiral...
From chain clad shopping baskets to rubber gloves, bleach, gin and soda, Karl Lagerfeld took us to an all-branded Chanel Supermarché. But once the intercom announced the store closure an eruption of consumer chaos saw the Chanel guests morph into ravenous animals, stashing souvenirs in their handbags, chomping on raw carrots as they went…
Within just 24 hours Jeremy Scott redefined ‘fast fashion’ forever, with his additive-heavy Americanised Moschino debut. Rebelling against fashion norms, Jeremy’s barely-legal heart-shaped golden arches and phone-case fries became available online as soon as the first model stepped onto the runway. Watch. Want. Click. Shop. Moschino for the masses, fries all round.
Subverting the youth-obsessed beauty world by choosing actress, Jessica Lange to front his new campaign, Marc Jacobs told us exclusively why Jessica is his new obsession: ‘Her voice I find almost narcotic, and there’s something so… It’s a bit like with me – there’s this hope and this wish and desire, but there’s always this sort of edge of melancholy or darkness.’
Following the new law passed last October, which classed under-18 models as child performers in an attempt to curb the usage of extremely young models on the catwalk, Dazed unpicked how this law changed New York Fashion Week, asking the question: ‘What do older models mean for fashion?’
From Cara’s selfie on the catwalk at Giles, to Kendall’s aura of celebrity which hijacked the runway, it’s safe to say our phone habits are influencing the way we experience a fashion show. A surreal and inevitable next step in fashion’s picture-taking frenzy, which has left us wondering what could possibly be next for SS15…
Welcoming guests to his highly anticipated show with a personal typewritten note, the AW14 Louis Vuitton show marked a new era with a collection which was fresh, new and unlike anything we expected. Appealing to the “collective unconscious”, we saw seventies suede and perverse leathers – it was about re-wiring our brains to accept a new Vuitton.
Van Herpen worked with Belgian artist Lawrence Malstaf to create a human installation of vacuum packed models, which was both ethereal and disturbing. Using her ability to draw inspiration from the complex corners of the imagination, science and the digital word, the collection called ‘biopiracy’ asked the question: ‘are we the sole proprietors of our body?’
This season saw us add a new term to our tried and tested list of fashion week vocabulary: ‘normcore’ – trend forecasting collective K-HOLE’s term for stylised blandness. But normcore hasn’t just tapped into the spirit of the streets; it’s infiltrated the runway too, fashion has a new proposal on the table and it’s best described as ‘avant-normcore’.
From candid shots of fittings backstage to the high voltage Balmain show; this season Olivier Rousteing gave us a snapshot of his opulent world, with his AW14 Balmain photo diary. Expect a heavy dose of pop bling, lavish high-octane glamour and Rhianna shots aplenty.
Atlanta rap trio Migos (Offset, Quavo and Takeoff) were responsible for the most contagious fash track of 2013 with Versace, their ode to Medusa heads, printed sleeves and silk drawers and after their song went viral with the help of Drake, it was soon the soundtrack on the Versace catwalk. So, on the eve of the AW14 show, Migos picked a trap-bounce-EDM-R&B playlist which they think would be the perfect accompaniment to Donatella’s latest creations.
AW14 season saw drones make their fashion week debut on the runway at Fendi. Encircling the catwalk, they lit-up green and red and zoomed high above the audience. Although they caused a few "Ooohs" and "Aaahs", they remained firmly in the background during the show, where the models who were anything but drone-like, were right at the forefront of the attention.
The front row of Prabal Gurung certainly got an eyeful this season, when a leopard-thonged man complete with a Burger King crown gallivanted down the runway. But this naked outburst was not the first of its kind to showcase during Fashion Week. From protestors, to streakers and activists, the runway has seen countless disruptions over the seasons, so we decided to chart five of the best…