Back in 2017, Demna Gvasalia debuted the platform Croc at his SS18 show, and, if you remember rightly, fashion lost its shit. Dividing opinions straight down the middle, the style came to epitomise the ugly fashion trend that swept the industry and spawned countless copycat versions in the aftermath. 

Now, Gvasalia is up to his old tricks, debuting what some might regard as an even more divisive style at his AW20 show this weekend. Step forward (literally) the rubber aqua shoe, which splashed its way down the label’s apocalyptic runway as part of a series of ergonomic all-in-one suits. Forget the Tabi: these see all five little piggies separated. 

With the show a clear comment on the worsening climate crisis, much of the catwalk – including the front row – was submerged in water, as dramatic projections which saw stormy waters, swirling lava, and burning fires raged across the ceiling. And while the collection at large was made up of Gvasalia classics such as thigh-high leather boots and OTT outerwear, it would seem that, if the Georgian designer’s predictions are correct, his divisive new shoes will be the most useful when the end times come (whatever your thoughts on them might be). 

With a succession of face masks and plenty more apocalyptic-ready looks making their way down the runway this season, it looks like AW20 is set to be a fashion game of survival of the fittest. Chic.