We round up the backstage images from Versace, Fendi, Givenchy, and more
Following hot on the heels of LFWM, the fashion crowd headed over to Italy to continue the SS20 menswear season – starting in Florence at Pitti Uomo before moving on to Milan.
Switching up the schedule, though, were Milan regulars Prada and Moschino, who both went international. Prada travelled across the world to Shanghai, while Jeremy Scott took over Hollywood’s Universal Studios sending models like drag superstar Violet Chachki down the runway as Morticia Addams and other cult horror icons.
In Florence, we got our first look at Sterling Ruby’s brand new fashion label, and witnessed Clare Waight Keller’s first standalone menswear show for Givenchy. In Milan, Fendi changed its regular show setting, taking over an Italian garden. Elsewhere, Versace headed back to the 90s and Philipp Plein staged a true to style, overly extra show.
ICYMI, we rounded up all the backstage images from the shows that might have passed you by.
GIVENCHY
For her first ever standalone menswear show, designer Clare Waight Keller headed to Pitti Uomo to present her SS20 collection. Taking place at the Villa Palmieri, the collection – entitled Nouveau Glitch – was inspired by Charles Baudelaire’s floral book cover graphics and Hubert de Givenchy’s family connections to French tapestry making. Talking on her other main influence for the collection, Korean street style, Waight Keller explained post-show: “It has that sense of freedom almost similar to what Brits did in the 80s and 90s, particularly in menswear. It’s very eclectic, with heavy jewellery.” The show’s looks were completed with all-white trainers, courtesy of a brand new collaboration with Japanese brand Onitsuka Tiger: a personal favourite of Waight Keller.
STERLING RUBY
Elsewhere in Florence, American artist Sterling Ruby released his highly anticipated new fashion brand S.R STUDIO. LA. CA. Presented to an audience that included friend and frequent collaborator Raf Simons, the show was a long time coming for both fans of his work and Ruby himself – who started making clothes at the age of 13 after being gifted a sewing machine by his mum. The brand is split into four different lines, which each represent a culmination of decades of his experimentation with different mediums of art, including textile and sculpture. The main line carries the name of the brand, while the other lines are ED5 50, a selection of limited edition made in bulks of 50; the SOTO line, which consists of pieces with fabric handworked by Sterling Ruby Studio, in numbers determined by the amount of fabric available. The final UNIQUE line made up of one-of-a-kind pieces all handcrafted by Ruby himself. When discussing how he would navigate his unique structure, Ruby explained he would not follow a season format, but instead go back to LA and rebuild the individual lines to continue to present them “instinctively, democratically, and without hierarchy”.
VERSACE
On Saturday night, Donatella Versace presented her 90s inspired SS20 Versace menswear show. Although a menswear show, the catwalk was still graced by her usual womenswear faves Gigi, Bella, Adut Akech, Stella Maxwell and Dazed 100 model Mona Tougaard. Models walked out with horned pink, yellow, and green hair – an ode to Donatella's friend Keith Flint, who passed away earlier this year. The soundtrack paid further homage, featuring rave classic “Firestarter” and “No Good (Start the Dance)”. The collection itself featured a series of 50/50 grey and black suits, bold baroque print trousers, shirts with sports car motifs and tie-dye shirts. Leopard print also made an appearance throughout the collection, featuring across blazers and low cut cowboy boots – yes, the Yee Haw agenda is still prominent. Elsewhere, the Versace man this season remained sophisticated in cinched leather trenches, classic black ties, and buttoned-shirts: v New Wave.
PHILIPP PLEIN
Entitled ‘Monsters of Rock’, Philipp Plein’s SS20 was even more of an extravagant celebration – yes, even topping the one with the spaceship – this time offering up the designer's interpretation of rock and roll. The show featured neon, Mad Max-esque trucks, a LOT of fire, and close to 100 looks on over 80 models, including the likes of Teddy Quinlivan and Dazed 100 model Aweng. The post-apocalyptic collection included tailoring with metallic animal patterns and sequined stars, as wells as trousers accented with vampire mouth prints, while the womenswear consisted of thigh-high buckled boots, studded corsets, and metallic floor-length dresses completed with biker jackets. Elsewhere, a collaboration with rock band KISS debuted. It was... a lot.
FENDI
On the closing day of MFW, Fendi presented its latest collection. Shown in a beautiful Italian garden, the set was enough to make us all wishful for the summer we’re currently missing. The collection featured a collaboration with the Oscar-nominated director of Call Me By Your Name, Luca Guadagnino, who created a geometric print which appeared across shirts, tunics, and accessories. Elsewhere, other looks included denim cargo shorts and jumpsuits, oversized waxed jackets and summery, loose fitting shirts. The standout accessory, though, was a Fendi bag slash watering can – perfect for some fashionable summer gardening... if the weather ever permits it.