So far, throughout the AW19 shows, there’s been an air of foreboding on the runways: just look to yesterday’s Gucci show, where models wearing fetish-y masks and collars studded with lethal-looking spikes took to the runway, or to Matty Bovan’s latest collection, where the designer cited the Lancashire witch trials of the 17th century as inspiration. Continuing this theme today was Miuccia Prada, who debuted her new-season offering in Milan this evening. As always, here’s everything you need to know...
This time around, we were back in the Fondazione Prada building where last month’s menswear show took place. The setting was pretty stripped-back, and v v dark, with guests seated on soft, spongy foam seats made from what appeared to be sound insulation material.
IT WAS ALL QUITE GOTH
As models made their way out onto the runway, the first looks were made up of belted tailored pieces paired with heavy soled boots with pouches attached to them, all in a palette of black, black, and more black. Soon after came military jackets and bombers with utilitarian detailing, with looks finished with stripy scarves, boxy, structured bags and backpacks, and fur-trimmed caps like those seen in the men’s show. The music fit the gothic theme, with tracks including Marilyn Manson’s “Put a Spell On You” and “Bad Romance” by Lady Gaga mixed into the Tales from the Crypt and X Files soundtracks.
...BUT IT WAS ABOUT ROMANCE, TOO
As well as the tailoring and military-esque styles, there were also plenty of softer looks and finishings, including layered satin dresses with sweetheart necklines, as well as lace skirts and tight tops, some of which were worn over oversized shirts. Also on the line-up were drooping flower motifs and embellishments which featured on simple shift and slip dresses. “The good and the bad,” summed up Mrs Prada. “It was about romance, but romance and fear...This collection was some pieces of a love story, but in the end the real meaning was how to introduce some good in a world that has a lot of bad.”
WEDNESDAY ADDAMS WAS DEFINITELY ON THE MOODBOARD
From the red and black stripes to the dark lace, much of the show called to mind don’t-mess-with-me emo teen dressing. An entire group of models spotted long sleek black plaits conjured the image of one very beloved goth in particular though: Wednesday Addams. Backstage, Mrs Prada confirmed the inspiration with a laugh.
THE FRANKENSTEIN MOTIF FROM THE MEN’S SHOW WAS BACK
Mrs P debuted a new print at the men’s show last month: an illustration of Frankenstein’s monster, from Mary Shelley’s novel of the same name, as created by artist Jeanne Detallante. This time around it was back and emblazoned across the chest of a boxy, fine-knit sweater, but he was joined by his bride. “Frankenstein came from a way of talking about the rejected,” the designer explained. “As the monster, even he wants love. So now we did a marriage and a marriage picture.”