At June’s Prada menswear show, Miuccia proposed a series of manbags, tiny jorts, and huge, padded hats for SS19 (stay tuned to see whether they’ll catch on this summer). That was then, though, and this is now: tonight, we’re back in Milan to see exactly what she has in store for us come AW19 – here’s everything you need to know.
The show took place in the Deposito performance space in the Fondazione Prada, and its corrugated metal floors were lined with a grid of bright white lights and columns that the models made their way around on the runway. According to Mrs P, she wanted the show to have a ‘science-fictive feel’.
THE SOUNDTRACK BANGED
...but this is a Prada show, and we wouldn’t expect anything less, right? On the soundsystem tonight was a wild mash-up of Marilyn Manson’s “Tainted Love”, “Bestaan” by Job Sifre, the Revolting Cocks’ cover of “Do Ya Think I’m Sexy?”, and “No Tears” by Tuxedomoon, interspersed with snippets of the Addams Family theme, Rocky Horror’s“Time Warp”, and “Danse Macabre”, which you may or may not remember as the soundtrack to iconic 90s BBC drama Jonathan Creek (just us?).
THERE WAS A LOT OF TAILORING AND CLASHING FRANKENSTEIN PRINTS
The first few models made their way through the spotlit venue wearing loose, slightly cropped trousers and slim, panelled coats – some cinched at the waist with wide leather belts. Underneath, they wore simple t-shirts or nothing at all: the looks’ clean, linear lines denoting the sense of futurism Miuccia was seemingly trying to convey within the set. Then came the more quintessentially Prada looks: spread-collar shirts tucked into high-waisted pants and layered over polo necks, many of which featuried Frankenstein prints as created by Jeanne Detallente. Looks were finished with chunky-soled studded shoes, harness-style backpacks, some pretty distinctive glasses, and a fur-trimmed evolution of the hats first seen for SS19.
ONE BAG ISN’T ENOUGH FOR AW19
Over the course of the last year or so we’ve seen the fervour for tiny bags morph into some bonafide big sack energy (hi, Proenza Schouler!) – but, just like Karl Lagerfeld did at his SS19 beach-set Chanel show, tonight Miuccia proposed we carry not one, but two bags with us into AW19. Models toted a series of moderately sized clutches and duffles which had smaller, more compact bags attached with chains down the runway.
IT WASN’T ALL ABOUT THE BOYS
As well as the AW19 menswear collection, Miuccia’s Pre-Fall women’s offering also made its debut. Models including Prada campaign girls Gigi Hadid and Freja Beha Erichsen, Kaia Gerber, and Dazed covergirl Licett Morillo made their way down the runway in a succession of looks that clashed utilitarian detailing with bold clashing floral prints, carrying, like the boys, two bags. So now we’ve not just got one Prada bag to work towards: apparently we need two. Le sigh.