The magazine continues to support students and upcoming talent, as well as featuring established creatives like Jefferson Hack and Cathy Horyn
After launching VOID – a new project aimed at supporting young designers globally – at the end of last month, 1 Granary has now released the fifth edition of its magazine.
The new issue features the shoots from the seven spotlighted designers of the VOID project – like Charlotte Knowles, Stefan Cooke and Richard Quinn – and the established photographers and stylists they were paired with. Fashion East’s ASAI also joins for special print-only feature.
In addition to those who lent their photographic and styling talents to the issue, 1 Granary spoke to current industry names like Dazed founder Jefferson Hack, Cathy Horyn and designer Olivier Theyskens to give their advice to those looking to pursue a career in fashion. One cover is styled by Dazed’s creative director Robbie Spencer, featuring the work of a series of CSM grads from over the years.
We find out what else to expect from the new issue.
The issue took its title from a quote – can you tell us about it?
1 Granary: We named our fifth issue ‘We become aware of the void as we fill it’ simply because each year and with every step, through conversations with students, graduates and industry professionals, we realise how many more things should be done to secure the wellbeing of the young generation of fashion designers. From the development of fashion education, to support platforms for emerging designers, and the industry’s structure at large, this issue aims to open up a space for discussions, reflection, positive change and moving forward together in a more sustainable way.
What are some of the highlights of the issue?
1 Granary: One thing we’re really excited about is that we started travelling around the world to discover new cultures of fashion design. We explored fashion schools in Helsinki, Kiev and Shanghai. Another crucial part is that we introduced an opinion section for the very first time, giving young creatives a more substantial platform to speak up about issues that concern them and aren’t generally being said in the industry. We are grateful that over time, the people we speak with are opening up even more about issues, and they are willing to critically discuss them in a positive way.
What is some of the best advice given by the industry names you spoke to?
1 Granary: “Not enough people are out there actually saying: being smart is cool, that’s going to take you so far.” – Julie Zerbo
“You have to dare to avoid the obvious.” – Olivier Theyskens
“Don’t commit to things which you don’t feel are correct, don’t surround yourself with negativity, and be clean in your mind. Stop the noise!” – Marc Ascoli
Can you tell us about the stories behind the four covers?
1 Granary: 1 – We travelled to Bulgaria with Chris Rhodes and Lyson Marchessault to shoot the work of design duo Chopova Lowena. Cultural heritage is at the heart of their designs, and they artistically juxtapose craftsmanship with influences such as rock climbing and wrestling, the latter of which was present in this collection. This story was featured in the VOID section, of which we created an exhibition at The Store Studios in late November, in conjunction with the launch of our new global initiative.
2 – Daniel Jackson and Alastair McKimm jumped on board together with Saskia de Brauw to celebrate the work of the nine design talents who graduated from Parsons MFA Fashion Design and Society this year. Preceding this shoot in the magazine is a round-the-table discussion with all designers, talking in depth about education, culture and the industry. The design of Venus Lo is featured on the cover.
“This issue aims to open up a space for discussions, reflection, positive change and moving forward together” – 1 Granary
3 – Max von Gumppenberg + Patrick Bienert and Robbie Spencer are honouring the work of cross-generational Central Saint Martins graduates, from Stella McCartney up to this year’s graduates Goom Heo and Matt Dyer. Shot in the old CSM building in Holborn, the story bridges the gap between the distant and imminent past of the college, whose legacy deeply affects current and future students.
4 – James Robjant and Eliza Conlon captured Royal College of Art’s MA Fashion class of 2017 in a 30-page portfolio, each designer being shown in a strikingly different narrative. On this cover, Jing Tan’s sculptural apple hat is featured.
The new issue of 1 Granary is out now – buy it here.