Clare Waight Keller debuts her new era of Givenchy at PFW

This morning at Paris’s Palais de Justice, Clare Waight Keller ushered in her era for Givenchy with an audience that included the likes of Rooney Mara, Julianne Moore, Cate Blanchett and Pedro Almodóvar. Here’s what went down.

THE INVITATION WAS A PLASTIC ENVELOPE

A document wallet? A see through clutch bag? Perhaps not the most private accessory, but a couple of guests could still be seen leaving with armfuls of ‘em. Keep an eye out on eBay?

THE SHOW WAS CALLED TRANSFORMATION SEDUCTION

“Fashion is a tool for self metamorphosis. It can transform the spirit through a new attitude, for new beginnings.” So read the show notes, which stated that for this collection seduction was key. That manifested plunging necklines, black and white lace, leather trench coats, and shiny dark tailoring.

PATTERN AND PRINT, AND ARCHIVE REFERENCES

Think stripes, florals, and animal prints. The second look out on the runway featured a four leaf clover print from 1961, which reappeared later as if scratched by cats – a reference to the Steven Meisel-shot preview campaign. There was also a lips motif which Waight Keller lifted from the archives, taken from one dress with big lips on the sleeves. “I just felt there was something playful and magical about it,” she said backstage.

THERE WAS MENSWEAR

“Behind transformation seduction is a couple, they represent my vision of modern togetherness,” declared the show notes. Waight Keller is overseeing both womenswear and menswear for the house, and the show featured men’s looks too – Teddy Boy-ish tailoring, open silk shirts and jeans – even the odd waistcoat. The models wore tiny necklaces, which bounced on necks as they walked. There was a definite interplay between the two genders – something that designer was keen to establish for her debut. “I really wanted to find a couple for the house,” she explained backstage. 

THE FOUR G’S LOGO IS BACK

The famous logo, the original one used by Hubert de Givenchy, appeared on belt buckles, and in devoré velvet over a sheer black shirt as worn by Alpha Dia. Also, it popped up on coffee cups handed out post-show, providing a very fashionable pick me up.