Last night in Saint Petersburg, as the clock edged towards midnight, Gosha Rubchinskiy debuted his SS18 collection. We were on the ground – here’s everything you need to know.
The show space was in a building that had previously held a concert hall, library and theatre. Most importantly, it had been home to Russia’s first rave, brought to the ‘gateway to the West’ city from Berlin after the fall of the Wall, by artist Timur Novikov. (Keen-eyed Gosha fans will remember that the two teamed up a couple of years back). Guests sat around a balcony, looking down on a set made up of smashed up theatre chairs, shrouded in smoke and lit up with the green lasers you will know if you've ever been to a techno rave. Think Darude’s Sandstorm.
THE COLLECTION WAS INSPIRED BY 90S RUSSIAN RAVE STYLE
Like the venue, the collection was heavily linked to Saint Petersburg’s 90s rave culture. Hanging out at places like Planetarium and Russia’s first techno club – Tunnel – young people at the time represented a new wave of both music and fashion. Like Rubchinskiy’s models, they wore outfits that layered hoodies and wide-legged jeans with sportswear – items like fluorescent track pants, football shorts and jerseys.
THERE WAS A SURPRISE BURBERRY COLLAB
We didn’t see this one coming. Gosha surprised his audience by teaming up with heritage Brit brand Burberry, reworking some of their most iconic pieces (the Harrington jacket, the trench coat, and yes, that famous Burberry check). Burberry’s Christopher Bailey was even in attendance, as was hat designer Stephen Jones, who worked to bring the collaboration to life with headwear.
...ON TOP OF THE CONTINUED ADIDAS FOOTBALL PARTNERSHIP
Saint P didn’t just bring rave to Russia – it also brought football, thanks to the British ambassadors who were stationed there in the 19th century. This show marked the second adidas Football pair up, and saw Gosha make sportswear in raver-bright neons, as well as send out a few pitch-ready footy looks.
Gosha Rubchinskiy SS18Photography Yana Davydova
A NEW ZINE DROPPED
Accompanying the collection was a zine created by Rubchinskiy and online platform, INRUSSIA. Previously working on a zine and film for last season’s Kaliningrad show, this one was dedicated to the original Saint Petersburg ravers. We’ll be sharing an exclusive first look later this morning – keep an eye out!
