Yesterday afternoon, Dior Homme returned to the Tennis Club de Paris for their SS17 show. Led by creative director Kris Van Assche, it was a journey into subcultural style inspired by “order and disorder”. Here’s what you need to know. 

IT WAS SET IN A FUNFAIR

Last season Dior erected giant skateboard ramps, but the first clue of the SS17 show set came via the invitation, which read ‘Dior Fun Fair’. The house teased a picture of the set before the show, which turned out to be a giant twisting metal sculpture, covered with fairground lights (they began to flash when the music started). Models weaved in and out on the silver metal floor, with Van Assche telling Alexander Fury that he had always found the funfair an inspiring place to visit as a child – thanks to the outsider teens who would hang out there.

IT REFERENCED PUNK, GOTH, AND MORE

The collection’s main point of reference was subculture, with Van Assche serving up a mishmash of references from an array of different gangs. There were oversized, JNCO-style trousers with huge pockets and straps that referenced skaters and crusty ravers, punkish cut-off trousers, lace-up boots and black nail polish, steampunk style mirrored shades, and a classic gothic colour scheme of black and red. “This season there is a sense of collective consciousness to the collection – a remix of shared boyhood memories,” said the designer in the show notes. “I am interested in a synthesis of generations and filtering subcultures through my own lens to tell a new story.”

A$AP ROCKY AND LARRY CLARK TURNED OUT

The week before last, A$AP Rocky and Larry Clark were announced as the new faces of Dior Homme, striking poses in a Willy Vanderperre-shot campaign for AW16. Both put in appearances at yesterday’s show – A$AP was dressed in the new collection, wearing a black suit with red Frankenstein stitching and a series of flower pin badges, while Clark opted for a plain black jacket and trousers. They weren’t the only high-profile guests – Karl Lagerfeld was also present, unusually dressed in blue, and Robert Pattinson, the face of the Dior Homme fragrance was present too.

THE DIOR SUIT GOT A BONDAGE HARNESS UPGRADE

Riffing on the punk theme, some models had their outfits accessorised with bondage harnesses, where black and red straps were joined together with shiny silver O rings. They came under suits and over vests, and there were even miniature versions, worn on the hands.