Joseph SS15

Initial reaction:

White candles dotted across the floor led through to a derelict warehouse space where the runway was transformed into a labyrinth of paths, stretching across the square room. Taking heed from Geisha culture, creative director Louise Trotter transported a Japanese tradition into the 21st century with an injection of sports luxe.

In the details:

Ghostly whites and gunmetal blacks, with pops of khaki, beige and aquamarine were colour-blocked across thick jersey, anglaise broidery and leather jumpsuits, the latter with mesh panelling falling from their knees. Larger-than-life clutch bags were weighed on the elbow as honeycomb prints morphed into thick, loosely knitted – almost crocheted – dresses. While sports tube socks subtly underlined the duality to Trotter’s athletically imbued Geisha, as traditional sandals were amped up a few inches and given new life with bamboo platforms.

Double take: 

Denim on denim, silk on silk and leather on leather. Trotter’s take on SS15 felt very much like a less is more philosophy – stripped back palette and loose silhouettes – but also an approach where more of the same thing is even better. Case in point? Loosely fitted white shirts and one-size-too-big chunky knitted jumpers merged with their replicas, while denim shirts cinched around their twin doubles, frayed and oversized.

The soundtrack to Joseph SS15: