Such is the hype surrounding Peter Dundas’s overhaul of Emilio Pucci that there is no wonder the Saturday show in Milan brought high expectations. After the stunning chiffon lace-up numbers that Dundas showed last season, the Winter collection felt like a continuation of that sensual mood, with plenty of fur, embroidery and even corseting referencing the designer’s latest infatuation: Versailles.
Taking inspiration from Tyrol mountains, Pucci’s signature swirly lines were translated into embroidery and graphic green and black prints. Just like the previous Dundas’s collections for Pucci, the new season was beaming with hidden sexuality too. Dresses hit just below the knee and had high necks, but the backs were provocatively open. A new addition of menswear to the line up made for a coherent vision, which - at least for ten minutes – made the audience feel like it’s been transported in place and time.
Dazed Digital: What was the inspiration of this collection? Peter Dundas: A lot of different elements. The Brothers Grimm, Austria, the mountains of Tyrol... A lot of embroidery and prints in the collection were also inspired by a book on the restauration of Versailles.
DD: Tell us more about the colours you used. Peter Dundas: All the greens came from my interest in the mountains. I’m generally obsessed with colours, so using a lot of them comes naturally to me. When it comes to colours, I think I act a bit like a hungry person, who hasn’t eaten for a long time!
DD: And where did the embroidery come from? Peter Dundas: It was inspired by jewellery and wall hangings in Versailles