Last season was all about the coats and that theme continued partly at Kris Van Assche’s Dior Homme show. Coats, almost more like thin robes, flowed as the models walked out from what looked like a massive white cotton labyrinth. Except for coats, Van Assche of course looked in detail at suits, many of which had asymmetric lapels. Mostly in black they came in a loose silhouette, made look even more comfortable by over sized T-shirts with deep V-necks. Angularly cut tops flashed a bit of skin and a few suit jackets had capes on the back, giving them the look of suited and booted formal knights. But also a few army influences shone through, mostly through sleeveless M65 jackets in beige and black. Kris Van Assche has definitely found his Dior look and is busy perfecting it.

Dazed Digital: What was the main idea for the show?
Kris Van Assche: It’s really about Less is More. I wanted to focus on the detailing, finish and the fabrics. Luxury is about how the fabric moves on the body. When you show less, you really get to see the detailing.

DD: What was your approach to the suits?
Kris Van Assche: We’ve been working on deconstructing the suit for a while. I’m convinced that men don’t want to suffer to be elegant, so elegance goes with comfort in a way. I also like to use the Dior atelier; this is a collection I couldn’t have made without them. It’s about the tiny details, a lot happens on the inside.

DD: What about the piece with a jacket front and a cape at the back…
Kris Van Assche: It’s from the Korean film Spring Summer, Fall, Winter… and Spring. It’s a connection between the Buddhist mantra of ‘living with less makes quality bigger’ and what we do in the Atelier.

DD: Favourite piece in the collection?
Kris Van Assche: My raw edged wool T-shirt…