Oscar Ouyang: ‘I didn’t get warned how tough the fashion industry is’

Earlier this summer, when London designers first found out what slot they’d been given on the SS26 schedule, knitwear designer Oscar Ouyang was nervous to discover he’d be making his London Fashion Week debut with a 10am catwalk. His nerves were well justified – it’s not unusual for fashion week attendees to skip the first show of the day due to deadlines, busy schedules and consecutive late nights. 

Despite this, Ouyang never needed to worry. Yesterday morning (September 19), the NEWGEN space at 180 Strand was overflowing with bright-eyed show goers, all eager to witness the first on-schedule collection from one of London’s buzziest names right now – and he didn’t disappoint. The Beijing-born, Central Saint Martins graduate delivered a fresh and feathered collection, titled Don’t Shoot The Messenger, inspired by the chaos of mixed messages.

To bring his concept to life, Ouyang imitated messenger birds (owls, eagles and pigeons) using meat by-product feathers from chickens and turkeys. Among the poultry, the designer flexed what he does best – intricate cable knits, now shimmering in metallic colourways. It was a strong start to Friday and an even stronger LFW debut. While his show might have been based on miscommunication, one message was abundantly clear: Ouyang is one to watch. Below, we speak to the designer about his debut show, a new chapter for LFW, and what he’s hoping to change about the industry.

How long have you been working on this collection?

Oscar Ouyang: We started it in April and actually finished most of it by June. But because London men’s was cancelled we had to wait until now. 

So you would’ve shown during men’s instead? 

Oscar Ouyang: I would have, yeah. But it gave us more preparation time for the debut show. 

September is the big one too. 

Oscar Ouyang: Exactly! And the weather in London right now is perfect for knitwear.

Can you tell us a bit about the collection? 

Oscar Ouyang: It’s called Don’t Shoot The Messenger and we’ve got all the messenger birds – owls, eagles and pigeons – but they’re being shot, so the message is undelivered, causing chaos and miscommunication. It sums up the digital world right now: you receive so many messages every day, but we also live in this cocoon where so many messages can’t get through.

Tutors need to stop telling students that they’re all going to become designers and have their own brand... there are so many other paths within the industry that might be more suitable and less toxic

– Oscar Ouyang

The last time we spoke you told me you were hoping to put on a ‘banging show’. What do you think are some of the most banging shows of all time? 

Oscar Ouyang: [laughs] Recently I’ve been really getting into the Issey Miyake shows because they’re quite quiet and poetic. Then Junya [Watanabe] shows too – they have a grungy element to them. Also Raf [Simons] shows of the 2000s. There’s an energy to them that’s more than just clothes. 

It feels like there’s a new energy to London Fashion Week this season too…

Oscar Ouyang: Yeah! Definitely. We have a new CEO of the British Fashion Council [Laura Weir], there’s more investment, there’s more people coming. It’s a good thing for me that I’m debuting this season!

How does it feel to have made your on-schedule debut?

Oscar Ouyang: Being on the official schedule is like getting a stamp of approval. It’s one thing doing cool, fun things, but it’s another getting approved by people higher up in the industry. 

What other designers should we be excited about right now? 

Oscar Ouyang: I also love Pia’s work [Olympia Schiele of Louther], then there’s YAKU and Charlie Constantinou – they are always experimental with outerwear. 

As an emerging designer just entering the industry, what’s something you’d like to change about it? 

Oscar Ouyang: It’s more the educational side of it for me – what students are taught at uni. I didn’t get warned enough about how tough and inaccessible the industry is. [Tutors] need to stop telling students that they’re all going to become designers and have their own brand, because that’s not the path for everyone and there are so many other paths within the industry that might be more suitable and less toxic.

Scroll through the gallery above to see Ouyang’s collection in full