One down, four to go – we’ve reached the penultimate day of New York Fashion Week’s SS25 edition, as editors pack up their stuff and get set to head off for London in-between dashing to and from shows across the city. So far, highlights include new kids on the block Women’s History Museum’s scrappy church takeover, Willy Chavarria’s vision of America, and Wu-Tang Clan’s surprise performance at Tommy, with Luar and Elena Velez still to come. Right now, though, we’re all about Coach, as British transplant Stuart Vevers debuts what he’s been working on for the past six months. Here’s what went down.

STUART’S INTO GETTING HIGH 

…On the New York High Line that is (though weed is legal in NYC, so who knows?) The designer left behind the opulent Uptown mansion that housed his AW25 show and stepped out into the sunlight and hustle and bustle of one of the city’s most popular spots. Thankfully, the September sun continued to shine as guests took their seats and waited for the show to start.

…AND HE’S STILL ABSOLUTELY BESOTTED WITH NYC 

After declaring himself as loved up with his adoptive home after ten years living there as he was on day one, last season’s love letter to NYC continued as for SS25 as Vevers turned the page and carried on scribbling. The first look out of the gate was a classic ‘I <3 NY’ tee usually scooped up from literally any souvenir shop or stand across the city, only in Coach’s hands it was elevated through the quality materials and craftsmanship the brand is known for. Across the collection, the shirt appeared as a component of a vast swathe of looks, whether thrown on with striped seersucker boxers and a pair of scuffed-up sneakers, or layered under well-loved brown leather blouson jackets and matching buttery-soft shorts.

THE COLLECTION WAS SCUZZIER THAN LAST SEASON 

After sending several NYC archetypes down the runway for AW24 – including rebellious Uptown princesses in prissy prom dresses paired with chunky black boots, and slick 9-5ers clutching coffee cups and briefcases – this season’s offering felt a bit more rough and ready. With an electroclash-heavy soundtrack setting the scene, the models looked like they’d been rifling through the racks of some of

Brooklyn’s best thrift stores and thrown the clothes they found on in a way that New Yorkers do so well. Big, boxy blazers and dinner jackets were matching with little minis, heels and caps, as if their wearer had spent the night drinking in a scuzzy dive bar and borrowed a cover-up to take the subway home, while neat a-line dresses in sugary hues were toughened up with dirty Soho trainers and undone hair. Vevers revealed backstage he wanted to create a fresh new wardrobe for a new generation of fashion fans and it felt like he’d succeeded with this easy-to-wear offering.

CHARMS ARE GOING NOWHERE

Vevers once more tapped into one of the biggest trends of the last few seasons by sending out bags, shoes, and more strung with countless souvenir-y charms. Coach’s signature lips and hearts dangled from clutches, while trainer laces bounced around with cassette tape accoutrements hanging from the end of them. Maybe the easiest way to update your look for the coming season, if the cost of living crisis is biting and your budget won’t stretch to the clothes. 

THERE WAS A SUPER CUTE FINALE MOMENT

…as Vevers’ two kids jumped out of their places to run and cuddle him as he came out to take his bow post-show. Backstage, Vevers counted that this was the third time the tots had done this, but that he hoped a career in fashion wasn’t on the agenda for them despite their excitement. Watch this space.