Tamburlaine Gorst (London, UK)

Having worked for the past 20 years as a designer including as Head of Design at Kenzo Homme in Paris, Tamburlaine Gorst returned to London to launch his own label. Softly tailored, and often casual, his clothing is influenced by early 20th Century tailoring, playing on functional military styles influenced by modern conceptual art. The simple garments using tough fabrics have been ‘beaten-up’ to look old and worn. Although understated in appearance, each item is full of subtle, functional details resulting in rich clothing so that every piece is meticulously cut and tailored.

Q&A
How old are you?
Forty one.



How long have you been designing?
I started at art school aged 19. I began working as a designer after graduating (that makes it about 20 years).


Where are you based?
Having spent many years in Paris I am now back in London. I have my studio at home, in Battersea.


How would you describe your own style?
Nonchalant. Informal. "Don't care...Do care". I spend time getting it right but right for me is an effort that should never be noticed. 

Who would you like to collaborate with?
For outerwear - Barbour, tailoring - Kilgour, shirts Turnbull & Asser, knitwear - Pringle, denim... Levi's. Footwear, Dunlop and Trickers.


Who do you have in mind when you design?
For my last collection I thought about an old French peasant farmer. I thought about all the old clothes he would have and the fabrics they would be made from. My 'muse', however, is more musician or artist. When I am designing my clothes I imagine someone who is 40, 50, even 60 years old wearing them... it forces me to be authentic. I believe that the older we get the better we know how to wear clothes and the more we understand our own innate style. I design with confident, creative people in mind.


What inspires you at the moment?
The texture of a jute sack. The patina of an old distressed wall. Arte Povera (Poor Art)... specifically the work of Jannis Kounellis and Alberto Burri. Contemporary artists Kendell Geers and Annette Messager. Documentary photographers Dorothea Lange, Lewis Wickes Hines, Robert Frank, Raymond Depardon and of course August Sander.


Who are your favorite designers and why?
Martin Margiela... there is a solid reason, an intelligent idea lurking behind everything he does. His artisanal line is half clothing, half sculpture. Junya Watanabe... his menswear has great authenticity. It doesn't get much better than re-inventing classics with the people who invented them. Carol Christian Poell... his combination of artisanal labour and cerebral concept make his work genius.

Were you interested in fashion while growing up?
At the age of 11 everyone at school was either a mod or a rocker. I made a jean jacket with chains hanging from it, trimmed in a bit of fake leopard, with rock band patches sewn all over...it was awful!!!
Several years later I was heavily into psychobilly music (a mixture of rockerbilly and punk) and would paint and draw on all of my clothes. I flirted with fashion as do all teenagers but I never thought of becoming a designer. I was more interested in drawing and painting.


What are the difficulties faced being a designer today?
It is difficult to find someone who will manufacture tiny quantities. It is difficult to achieve the right price for the market and still make money. It is difficult to compete with big brands who can be more creative, lower-priced and better promoted. Retailers are nervous...new brands are risky...they will go with what their customers know rather than offer something new. Finance is scarce to come by. Learning how to drive sales without sacrificing integrity or vision. Finding a new direction in a saturated market.
However, despite all of the above if you believe in something enough and stick at it then there will come a time when you break through.


If you weren't designing, what would you be doing?
Taking photographs of distressed walls and painting portraits of old people. Finding a way of turning a jute sack, a system of pulleys and an old gilt frame into something for the wall. Mixing electronic music and cooking food that is packed full of flavour. Gardening. Reading. Drawing... I will never be bored!


What are your plans for the future?
In 2010 I will launch a "Tamburlaine" transactional website where the experience will be like buying garments from an art gallery. At the same time I will open my first pop-up store in London.


Where can we buy your collection?
In London you can buy "Tamburlaine" at Liberty's from mid-February.