In September, IB Kamara released his first collection as art and image director of Off-White™. The collection looked to what once was, celebrating and reflecting on late founder Virgil Abloh’s brand codes and vision. Now, for AW23 Kamara is looking to the future and turning the page as he ushers in a new era for the brand. Presented on Thursday morning in Paris, the Lunar Delivery show was a futuristic offering of pieces inspired by Kamara’s background. “There could only ever be one Virgil. He was constantly innovating and thinking ahead and he left us a brand that can reinvent itself, grow and stand the test of time,” Kamara explained. “This collection marks the beginning of a new path, inspired by world-building. It envisions something yet to exist.” 

Ticket lost in the post? Below we break down everything you need to know about the AW23 show.

THE SHOW LANDED IN UNCHARTED INTERGALACTIC TERRITORY

With Paris being the last stop a whirlwind fashion month, it’s easy to feel that by the end of it you’re rotating on a different planet – and for those in attendance at the Off-White™ show, they quite literally were. With the cavernous space filled with fine red sand and jutting rocks, the otherworldly event transported guests to the surface of Mars. The star of the show, however, was a metallic, reflective orb which sat in the middle of it all – offering a 360 mirrored view of the attendees and the collection as models stomped down the catwalk. Meanwhile, the team showing guests to their seats wore t-shirts plastered with “I need space” slogans, which guests were also gifted on each seat – a mood, a moment, etc.

THE CELEB CROWD WAS ECLECTIC

@dazed *adds to playlist* @Raye at the @off____white AW23 show #DazedFashionTV #TikTokFashion #OffWhite #AW23 #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #FashionWeek #Raye ♬ original sound - dazed

In recent years, fashion week has become something of a celeb playground, and as one of the most anticipated shows on the AW23 Paris schedule, Off-White™ was obviously no exception as stars from all arms of the creative industries landed at the show. Attendees included the likes of Raye, Jodie-Turner Smith, Tessa Thompson, Eve, Ciara, and Noah Beck. Elsewhere, the usual fashion crowd was in attendance, with Anna Wintour sitting on the sidelines and Dazed’s Jefferson Hack showing up to cheer on Kamara and his team.

THE COLLECTION TOOK FUTURISM TO NEW HEIGHTS

Models weaved around the mysterious orb, their feet kicking up a sheet of sand in eyelet-strewn kilts, overstuffed bombers, and reflective space suits. Full-body sheaths, wipe-clean jackets, and puffers were printed in a constellation of astronomical etchings, while blazers and stretch-knit dresses bore trompe l’oeil harnesses. Pale lilac suits looked as though they had been trampled with the greased-up wheels of a space rover while tracksuits were festooned in heavyset jewels and body-mapped beads, with a couple of alienoid characters walking with their heads covered in barbed grommets.

ISAMAYA FFRENCH SPUN A WHEEL OF FORTUNE WITH THE BEAUTY LOOKS

Last month Isamaya Ffrench was announced as Off-White™’s newest addition, joining IB Kamara and his team as the label’s beauty curator. Needless to say, her first show with the brand did not disappoint. Fitting into the overall futuristic vibe of the show and collection, Ffrench’s standout look featured multiple miniature silver wheels glued all over a model's face creating an innovative optical illusion. Other looks included metallic sci-fi-inspired silver eye make-up and bleached brows. The discs were also featured in a series of looks by hairstylist Jawara.

PRECIOUS LEE WALKED

@dazed #PreciousLee for @off____white AW23 show ☄️ #DazedFashionTV #TikTokFashion #OffWhite #AW23 #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #FashionWeek ♬ original sound - dazed

No stranger to breaking down barriers, Precious Lee walked the show as Off-White™’s first-ever runway curve model, wearing a high-neck metallic trippy dress with utilitarian strap detailing. While fashion continues to take a few steps forward and many steps back when it comes to size diversity, Lee continues to prove that curve models not only deserve but should be on the runway. 

…AND SO DID NAOMI

For her first – and possibly only? – runway appearance this season, supermodel Naomi Campbell took a stroll through the set wearing a tight-fitted black dress detailed at the neckline with a huge black ring. She later returned at the end of the show, walking around the dome with IB Kamara in another two-piece black ensemble as he did his victory lap. The model has long been a champion of his work, and was close friends with Abloh, so the full-circle moment was a poignant one. The AW23 model line-up was cast by Dazed casting director Mischa Notcutt and also featured runway veterans Adut Akech, Anok Yai, and Soo Joo Park, as well as the legendary Omahyra Mota.