...and more fashion news you missed
Felix Choong – the founder of chin-strokey fashion magazine Nice Outfit – has curated an exhibition of fashion and textiles that examines the concept of home. With contributions from Comme Des Garçons, Vivienne Westwood, Issey Miyake, Gui Rosa, and VeniceW, Knock Knock traces the tensions that collect around gender, domestic labour, childhood, and shelter, treating the home as “a site of both sanctuary and contention.” There, a button isn’t merely a button, but “an emotional archaeology signifying our hoarder-like tendencies”, tumorous appendages telegraph an “incessant desire for comfort”, while fur coats are reinterpreted as “a bourgeois cilice.”
With set pieces designed by Rory Mullen, Knock Knock is a thematic continuation of Choong’s 2020 show Homesick For Another World, which framed clothing as a form of resistance towards present-day political anxieties. “The home is meant to be a cocoon against the troubles of the world, yet behind closed doors these spaces present us with intimacies, connections and altercations that must be reckoned with whether we want to or not,” Choong says. “These garments are snapshots into our own lives, the ones that we exhibit and the ones that we conceal.” Knock Knock will run from December 9 to December 11 at the Season Gallery on Brick Lane.
In other news this week, Louis Vuitton threw open the doors to its Dream exhibition, which maps all of its creative collaborations since Marc Jacobs first took to the helm, while Jun Takahashi came together with Stranger Things to design a capsule wardrobe for Dungeons & Dragons nerds. Elsewhere, Balenciaga responded to its SS23 campaign controversy, and Ludovic de Saint Sernin was appointed the new creative director of Ann Demeulemeester. Shannon Abloh also stepped into the spotlight, outlining her 50-year plan to commemorate Virgil Abloh, while Miu Miu was crowned the hottest brand in the world, and Carrie Bradshaw’s old dress sold for over €15,000. For everything else you may have missed, click through the gallery below.
A-COLD-WALL* STICKS ITS FOOT IN
This week, Samuel Ross twisted another pair of Converse sneakers into a high-concept, utilitarian shoe. Based on the idea that technology can push design forward, the Converse x A-COLD-WALL* Geo Forma is an entirely new silhouette, drawing inspiration from the Chuck 70. A bit space age, a bit maintenance man, the shoe features a stretch-fabric bootie, an elastic collar, and thick, recycled soles. See more of them here.
GET INTO BED WITH JACQUEMUS
Earlier this year, Simon Jacquemus got married to Marco Maestri, but he’s already inviting fans to sleep over… kind of. This week, the designer unveiled a capsule collection of bedding and sleepwear made in collaboration with Tekla – all poplin PJs, striped linen sheets, and towelling dressing gowns. Head over here to snuggle down.
THE LVMH PRIZE IS OPEN
Having launched the careers of Marine Serre, Nensi Dojaka, Steven Stokey Daley and countless others, applications are now open for the next edition of the LVMH Prize. The 2023 competition marks its 10th anniversary and designers will have until January 29 to submit their proposals for a chance to win a €300,000 lump sum and mentorship by the LVMH team. Click here to read more.
DIOR CRIES DENIM TEARS
Due to host its Pre-Fall 2023 runway at the Pyramids of Giza in Egypt on Saturday 3 December, Kim Jones has unveiled this season’s guest collaborator: Tremaine Emory of Denim Tears. Together, they will celebrate “the inventiveness of the house of Dior and the strength of its creative dialogues.” Perhaps streetwear isn’t dead, after all. Livestream the show at 4pm tomorrow here.
GUCCI’S COSMOGONIE IS OUT
Last week, Alessandro Michele made a shock exit from Gucci, where he had been creative director for seven years. Though his final hoorah will be staged in January, the designer has just unveiled the accompanying campaign to his Cosmogonie show, which took place in May. The whole thing has been rendered to look like a Renaissance painting – with models backdropped by celestial canvases, conjuring the spirit of Nicolaus Copernicus or Galileo Galilei. Click here to see more.
PATAGONIA FOUNDER TO BE CELEBRATED AT THE FASHION AWARDS
The 2022 Fashion Awards takes place next Monday and the British Fashion Council has made the decision to honour Yvon Chouinard with the Outstanding Achievement Award. Earlier this year, the founder and former owner of Patagonia gave his entire company away to fight against climate change. He transferred all ownership to two new entities – The Patagonia Purpose Trust and the Holdfast Collective – meaning Chouinard only owns two per cent of its total stock. The company will donate £87 million annually to environmental causes depending on the company’s health. Elsewhere Dazed’s Jefferson Hack will receive the Special Recognition Award for Cultural Curation – read more about that here.