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Photography by Sonny Vandevelde

Mastori-Motwary Fleshes Out

This duo based in Athens presented their latest S/S 10 collection "Sarka" inspired by human flesh.

Once again Maria Mastori and Filep Motwary came together and presented their new collection “Sarka” during the first Dubrovnik Fashion week, inspired by flesh as the biological fabric of a person or animal located between the skin and the bones which played out in clothes and jewellery in flesh-tone shades covering the body. Using fabrics like silk organza or cotton tulle decorated with lace roses cutouts, as well as bold jewellery made of wood and carefully attached mirrors, the geometry becomes part of the flesh. Dazed interviews the duo based in Athens to find out more about this fabric flesh.

Dazed Digital: Tell us about your new collection?
Filep Motwary: When the time arrived to discuss the ideas of the S/S 10 collection
, there was a feeling of despair on the table. Both Maria and I really wanted to get away from what we did so far. At the same time we are both at the point where we are moving towards a different age era. It’s not about us feeling old though. It was a need to rediscover our identity as creators in combination with our past experiences and where the industry is moving; the industry to which we are part of. I worked on jerseys for the first time, which was a bit tricky, and Maria worked with wood on which she applied really bold ideas coming from 60s modernism. The skin-toned colour was decided on the way, when we realized that we wanted no colour for our silhouette or at least not any other colour that would offend the beauty of the skin.

DD: What does it mean "SARKA”?
Filep Motwary: “Sarka” is the raw version of the Greek word for “flesh”. We were quite impressed during the fittings, when we asked our fittings model to go downstairs, get out of the building and walk for us. We watched her from the balcony as she was going back and forth. It seemed like a different kind of body, a much more interesting outline, having her skin tones merge with the colour of the dress.

DD: When and why did you start designing? 

Filep Motwary: Oh, it’s a long boring story but I am in the business for more than a decade. I am 32 now.
Maria Mastori: I have always been creative. I started as an artist and entered fashion as a freelance jewellery designer. It all begun after an exhibition of my work, when Greek Couturier Loukia asked if we could collaborate. Since then it has become my passion and my true profession.

DD: Where do you seek for inspiration? 

Filep Motwary: Each season is a different story. Our collections themes do not match with each other. On the other hand, we recently did a test with Maria by placing the model-exit photos from four previews catwalk presentations, one next to the other in three identical rows. Somehow it looked like it was the same woman, only with different styling. It was interesting to see it and ralise that our work reflected our needs that changed season after season, in a very harmonious way. But back to your question, inspiration comes from anything and everything.

DD: What are the difficulties faced being a designer today? 

Filep Motwary: Well, that’s a tricky question so I will focus on us, as Athens based designers... I wish the Greek government supported us a bit and gave us a little push. The country where we live and pay our taxes does not understand our profession nor supports it because there is a lack of know-how. A few years back, for example, the Ministry of Culture in Paris held an exhibition of Dries Van Noten, which I thought was so wonderful, such a genuine gesture towards a designer who has offered so much in fashion. This would never happen in Greece. It is a sad story. Also there are no real PR offices in Greece, which makes the whole thing limited.

DD: Who is your favorite designer and why? 

Filep Motwary: I like Givenchy Couture by Riccardo Tisci and also Dries Van Noten for his ability to remain modern no matter what. What a designer he is!
Maria Mastori: I like Maison Martin Margiela, TAO and Comme des Garcons.

DD: What makes u happy? 

Filep Motwary: Discussing ideas…
Maria Mastori: My son, my work, a funny joke…

DD: With whom you would like to collaborate?
Filep Motwary: Anyone who is creative.
Maria Mastori:: With Ron Arad.