Fecal Matter step into Rick Owens’ nightmarish Converse and Saint Laurent gets beachy with Basquiat
“Here’s your chance to see the world through our eyes,” writes Kiara Morris in PLATFORM, the Christopher Kane zine spotlighting young creatives from Black and minority ethnic backgrounds. Now in its third edition, the publication took its first breath as a partnership between the British label and a collective of journalism students at Central Saint Martins.
This time around, however, the net has been cast significantly wider, featuring the work of students from around the UK – among them designers Francesca Lake, Connie Osaremae, Joy Julius, and fashion image maker Valerie Obigwilo. Collaborating with FACE (Fashion Academics Creating Equality), issue three interrogates the dearth of Black and Brown academics in the fashion system. And, it comes just one week after a Fashion Roundtable report, which underscored the depth of discrimination that pervades the fashion industry, meaning PLATFORM is as timely now as ever. “Because,” as Morris concludes, “our skin and our lives deserve respect, night and day.”
In other brilliant, Black fashion news, Telfar Clemens walked with the Liberian athletes at the Olympics opening ceremony, shortly before hopping onto the roster of New York’s blockbuster fashion week in September. Not quite, but very nearly an Olympian, Lady Gaga made a continued case for the tennis skirt, while Hedi Slimane hung up his skinny jeans for good, and Louis Vuitton announced plans for a 200th birthday bash.
Click through the gallery below to see what may have passed you by in fashion news this week.
SAINT LAURENT GOES SURFING WITH BASQUIAT
For his latest Rive Droite capsule, Anthony Vaccarello has come together with the estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat to produce a summery collection of hoodies, t-shirts, vests, tote bags, and skimboards – all scribbled with Basquiat’s illustrations. Saint Laurent’s LA and Paris Rive Droite outposts are also hosting an exhibition in honour of the late artist’s work, which goes on until September. You can check out the capsule online here.
ANDREW LLOYD WEBBER AND CHARLES JEFFREY COLLAB
Yes, really. Charles Jeffrey’s LOVERBOY was commissioned to redesign the uniforms of the Red Coat ushers that work in Theatre Royal, Drury Lane. Think giant safety pins hooked onto lapels, LOVERBOY red tartan suits, swooping kilts, and new romantic tailcoats.
PARIS FASHION WEEK REMEMBERS ALBER ELBAZ
When Alber Elbaz unexpectedly passed away earlier this year, the fashion world came together to share stories of the designer’s kindness, generosity, and joie de vivre. And now, AZ factory, Elbaz’s brand, has announced a memorial fashion show. Titled Love Brings Love, the runway is set to close Paris Fashion Week on October 5.
RICK OWENS LAUNCHED SOME SPOOKY CONVERSE...
There are the Bottega Veneta girlies with all their square toed heels and plush Instagram apartments, then there are Rick Owens’ nightmarish Converse alternatives – a stump-toed Chuck Taylor platform. The goullish duo Fecal Matter were tapped to model the shoe, which dropped July 27. Elsewhere, Rick Owens’s circular fashion line, Swampgod, is going global. Having launched in Milan earlier this month, upcycled pieces from previous Rick collections have now made their way across the pond and can be shopped online and instore at Maxfield LA.
Photography Jason Lloyd-Evans...WHILE JORDANLUCA TOOK ITS FIRST STEPS INTO FOOTWEAR
Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto met in the cubicle of East London’s infamous, and now sadly closed, gay pub, The Joiners Arms – which is precisely where the designer duo takes us for the launch of their debut shoe collection. Seen here in images shot by Jason Lloyd-Evans, 33 footwear styles make up part of the label’s SS22 offering which will launch next January. To celebrate this, quite literal, pitter patter of tiny feet, the brand has released an Instagram filter, which can be accessed via its profile.
YEEZY DAY IS NOW IMMINENT
Whilst Kanye is hunkering down in an Atlantan sports stadium – a ridiculous, distraction free space to finalise his upcoming Donda album – Yeezy is gearing up for another mammoth drop. The last Yeezy Day took place in 2019, with styles released every 30 minutes across both the Yeezy and adidas website. This year’s iteration is due to take place next week on August 2. Check out the countdown on Yeezy Supply to stay in the loop.
DIOR RETURNS TO ITS HARRODS POP-UP
Tucked away in an alcove at Harrods’ Knightsbridge flagship, Dior has set up a dedicated pop-up designed by Marco Lodola, a renowned artist in Italy’s neo-futurism movement. The concession, which houses Maria Grazia Chiuri’s FW21 collection, runs from August 4 to 29 and is emblazoned in leopard print, featuring new micro editions of the label’s Lady Dior and 30 Montaigne bags.
SAMUEL ROSS IS GIVING BACK
The struggles facing POC creatives can often feel insurmountable and without structural support to buttress and bolster their work, individuals, much like Christopher Kane, have stepped in to plug the gap. As such, this week, Samuel Ross has announced the launch of a new fund. In partnership with the Royal College of Art, the British Fashion Council and the Design Museum, the A-Cold-Wall* founder will be donating ten £2,500 grants to Black and POC artists. Applications are open here.