Last night, in a flurry of fur coats, Fendi made its Couture Fashion Week debut with its first haute fourrure collection in the house’s 90-year history. 

Lagerfeld’s model line-up – which included Molly Blair, Aya Jones and Lineisy Montero – filed out in front of an enormous surrealist print by Italian artist Giorgio de Chirico. They showcased a range of creations that, aside from coats, included stoles and capes, with feather and floral appliques and trippy trousers that came in gold leather and bore swirled, psychedelic prints.

Of course, the use of fur in fashion isn’t without its controversies – it came as no surprise when animal rights organisation PETA turned up to the show and staged a protest outside the venue. But don’t expect Fendi’s use of the fabric to change any time soon – “For me, fur is Fendi and Fendi is fur,” said Karl Lagerfeld, the house’s creative director of 50 years, back in February.

But regardless of the controversies that surround the use of the material, this collection was a testament to the skill of Fendi’s ateliers. As Lagerfeld admitted to WWD yesterday, the success of this collection rested on the shoulders of these artisans. “It’s not only the idea, it’s also the technique and finding the right people to do it, because there are not so many people left, and trained well enough. You cannot do this with amateurs,” he explained.