Emerging designers have always been London Fashion Week’s cup of tea. From Fashion East to Fashion Scout, industry insiders keep their eyes peeled on collective runways showcasing dazzling independent talent, waiting to see which up-and-coming mind will land in everyone’s cart next season. The Fashion Hong Kong Showcase is no exception. This season, the cherry-picked curation, in collaboration with the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, platformed four visionary designers delivering the cream of the crop AW26 collections, which span the breadth and depth of the region’s fashion ethos. The event came together with the help of EYC, which provided creative direction and production. 

From demure and architectural to sharp and alternative, the aesthetics presented a rounded portrait of Hong Kong’s multifaceted fashion scene, offering something for every palate. Even when a designer fell outside your usual taste, the craftsmanship and calibre were decadent enough that you still feasted. Unsurprisingly, the designers are less emerging rookies and more of local legends, each boasting a roster of C-pop divas and divos sporting their garments. Unfolding in the legendary store, The Vinyl Factory, in Soho, the event presented the latest from ANGUS TSUI, Bettie Haute Couture, HARRISON WONG, and selfFab. – before hosting the cheekiest cocktail bash afterwards. 

Below, the nitty-gritty of each collection is broken down, ready for you to savour.

ANGUS TSUI

Throughout his brand’s ten-year reign, Angus Tsui has never shied away from turning heads and, as this runway opener proved, he has no intention of stopping. Eerie music and dim lighting set the tone as hard-carved patent leather, sculpted into silhouettes in blood red and jet black hues. Despite conjuring up the atmosphere of a meticulously crafted couture slasher film, you still didn’t want to leave the room.

Despite the many gasp-worthy pieces, most notably a dermal-looking leather dress resembling skin that parted to reveal a gory red lining tracing the wearer’s movement, the spotlight was stolen by the footwear and accessories. Embellished with belt clasps, they ranged from buckled, kinky headpieces to a thigh-high reinterpretation of the Mary Jane. Its exaggerated length earned it the nickname “Mary Jaaaaane”, with the shoe fastened by 17 stacked clasps running the length of the leg.

Continuing a lineage of sci-fi references in the designer’s work, the collection drew heavily from the Hellraiser franchise, particularly the character Pinhead, in contrast to earlier cuts reminiscent of Alien. Casting was handled by collaborator Marquis, who also works with Rick Owens, a fitting match for two visionaries with kindred cinematic sensibilities.

Outside his horror-steeped runway persona, Tsui is disarmingly buoyant. He described the collection, titled 404: Safety Not Found, as a meditation on self-doubt, channelling anxieties around exposure, restraint and freedom into sharply rendered visual statements. This season marks a decisive leap forward as the brand enters its second decade. Rather than orbiting fashion’s centre of gravity, Tsui makes it clear he intends to help reshape it.

BETTIE HAUTE COUTURE

Praised by Alexander McQueen himself during her time at his eponymous label, designer Bettie Jiang has long been a name on the lips of those with a taste for cutting-edge tailoring. Having established herself through sharply executed suits distinguished by eye-catching linings, garments fit for fly first ladies, Jiang’s newest collection was also an ode to dichotomy, albeit on a different axis.

Rather than confining the pattern to the interior of the suit, this season she split it across the exterior, placing her patented Renaissance-inspired architectural motifs on one side of each garment. The structured, patterned panels were folded into gravity-defying contortions, while the opposing sides, seemingly plain at first glance, were crafted from heritage fabrics including Donegal tweed and regal silk and cashmere blends from Loro Piana.

Discussing the capsule after the show, she noted that this was a necessary ode to her British tutelage at London College of Fashion, as it shaped her footing as a fashion designer. At first glance, it may read as a familiar narrative. Yet the collection is ultimately unified by Jiang’s commitment to sustainable techniques, most notably her implementation of zero-waste pattern cutting, a practice that elevates her already refined craftsmanship.

While her visual language continues to evolve, Bettie’s vision remains disciplined, balancing artisanal dressmaking with the experimental Hong Kong inflexion that audiences were first introduced to at the city’s fashion week and have since come to love.

HARRISON WONG

Delivering a collection made up of suits embroidered to resemble snow, HARRISON WONG brought a snowstorm to the forecast – that, however, did not stop the collection from being a scorcher. Base pieces were kept classic while the embroideries transformed them: some trimmed with white threads to mimic snowfall, others dotted with pearls to emulate ice and snow. 

Completing the look, the models were blushed across the apples of their cheeks and noses, while crystals resembling frostbitten ice crowned their avalanche chic locks. As the runway at Vinyl Studios was bathed in dim blue light, the couture mountaineer aesthetic came alive, allowing the lightweight materials, made from a delicate paper-cotton blend, to move and catch the light front and centre.

Amidst prepping for the opening of his newest shop in March, HARRISON WONG has still managed to keep his textural legacy alive. Pleats remain his signature, but this season they play on a wilder, more avant-garde rhythm, with Wong growing increasingly comfortable exploring the full depths of his wildest textural fantasies.

SELFFAB.

Last but certainly not least, selfFAB. was introduced. The brand’s founder, Menu Tsai, began the show with a video of 1990s football clips, setting the stage for a multi-disciplinary manifestation of her vision.

Dismantling boundaries of geography and hierarchy, Tsai reimagines football across its many strata. Using clever reconstruction, she integrates football elements into high-end couture, including panels from balls used by famous players, which she uses in garments. In doing so, she adds lore and history to each piece, transforming contemporary designs into items with a sense of heritage and history.

Playing with tradition, she creates jerseys that reflect cultural identity more than a flag or country badge ever could – pleated jerseys for Scotland, for instance. Her designs draw on the disciplined ethos of athletes and align it with artisanal craft. Many of the jerseys are preloved, introducing circularity into a high-end market and bridging sustainability with style. 

Head to the gallery above to check out images from the show.