Stitched scars and punky tweeds abound as the designer destroys and patches up his classics
“Retouching your own pieces and cocooning yourself in amongst this madness,” was how Haider Ackermann summed up his collection. The retouching was in reference to the stitched up and bandaged aesthetic of his punked-up tweeds, and the way the girls had threads matted into their hair like remnants of surgery. The entire collection centred around translating Ackermann’s language to old-fashioned tweed, as he sought to make the fabric feel relevant and modern. Even as punk pervaded, Ackermann’s penchant for the sumptuous made way for a solitary velvet trouser suit, brushed with gold.
Punked and scarred:
“I love scars – it sounds depressing but it’s also about bringing out the beauty in them,” said Ackermann. Beautiful scars abounded, as they zig zagged across trouser waistbands and on the pockets and sleeves of cropped tweeds as white stitching. There were tougher elements at play here as ska-esque black and white check and new wave leopard print made their way into a normally print-shy collection. Wrap-around pleated kilts added a punk vibe to Ackermann, who in a breakaway from his usual languid style, sought to destroy his clothes a little and patch them back together again.
Bruce Springsteen’s “State Trooper” for Ackermann’s ever-travelling, nomadic woman.
The soundtrack to Haider Ackermann AW15: