Last season, Louise Trotter delivered her debut collection for Bottega Veneta at a time deemed fashion’s Big Reset. As one of the only women appointed to a creative director role, the debut was highly anticipated, and when the show actually did come around, it felt like a breath of fresh air. On Sunday night in Milan (February 28), she presented her section collection for the House and proved once again why excitement around her appointment was warranted. 

Described as a “dialogue between brutalism and sensuality”, Trotter’s AW26 collection tapped the brand’s home of Milan as the key source of inspiration. An ode to the Milanese way of dressing, Trotter explored how the nuances of a city can be reflected in clothing. The looks had a theatrical flair, subtly suggesting influences not only from Italy but also the intense, complicated dynamic and love, often associated with figures like Maria Callas and Pier Paolo Pasolini.

From the restrained, sculptural tailoring to the flamboyant sensuality reflected in her now signature bouncy coats, the collection solidified who Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta woman is: someone who is not only actually in the world, but she also pays attention to it, and presents herself in a way that proves it. But beyond that, the co-ed collection was positioned as a conversation between different generations, across all genders. As the notes read: “the collection is dedicated to the expression of the collective: the wondrous collaboration between the heart, the mind, and the hand.”

Scroll down for a breakdown of the show. 

IT DID NOT STRAY TOO FAR FROM HOME

The show took place in Palazzo San Fedele, Bottega Veneta’s 19th-century architectural delight of headquarters. Located right in the heart of Milan’s prized historic centre, the brand moved into its new home and space last year. Filled with music by Soundwalk Collective, the show’s bright red scenery honoured the history of San Fedele’s past legacy as a theatre space. As the show took place, the outside of the space featured a projected stream for all to see. 

THERE WAS AN ECLECTIC FRONT ROW

If you were watching the livestream of the show, you may have noticed crowds of people screaming for Lauryn Hill, who arrived wearing the iconic bouncy, wide-shouldered coats from Trotter’s debut collection. Before sitting front row, right next to I.N of Stray Kids, Hill was spotted chatting with legendary supermodel and actress Lauren Hutton. 

Other guests included Daisy Edgar-Jones, Julianne Moore, former Dazed cover star Pa Salieu, Zeyne, Claire Foy, Lux Pascal, India Sleem and Vicky Krieps. 

I.N TOOK US ALONG FOR THE JOURNEY

Have you ever wondered how stars get ready for the front row? Well, before the show, we headed to I.N's hotel room to quiz him about Milan, getting ready for Bottega Veneta’s AW26 show and more. Watch above. 

IT STARTED WITH SHARP RESTRAINED TAILORING…

In her debut collection, Trotter made many references to her move to Milan, and this season followed suit. But this time, a year into her journey and a new era in the Italian metropolitan city, brutalism has become a key reference for her. The collection opened with a series of carefully constructed, mostly monochromatic, almost modular tailored pieces that reflected the architectural style. 

…AND THEN BECAME A MASTERCLASS IN CRAFTSMANSHIP

Unfolding like a story, the collection’s references to brutalism were then softened, as precise silhouettes opened into fluid curves, while textures and materials played with the idea of skin against skin. References moved through generations, from nostalgic florals to heirloom accessories, grounding the collection in the rituals of everyday dressing. Deconstructed knitwear showed Trotter’s technical expertise at its best. And the pleated, manipulated leather? Gorgeous work, no notes. 

COZYMAXXING, BUT MAKE IT BOTTEGA 

The bouncy coats that were the highlight of last season returned again. Two times lucky, it’s sure these signature coats are likely to be pieces we see continuously develop during her time at the brand. 

Elsewhere, models also walked out, cocooned in the armour of oversized coats and pieces. The show notes reference the collection as “a study of intimacy as much as protection”; the coats are a perfect reflection of that idea. 

INTRECCIATIO WEAVE FOREVER 

What is a Bottega Veneta show without accessories that will become desired pieces almost instantly? This season, the Intrecciato weave was spotted on incredibly oversized, slouchy handbags. But in addition to the bags, the famous Intrecciato weave was smartly incorporated into trench coats and other pieces. 

A MIX OF FAMILIAR AND NEW FACES ON THE RUNWAY

Opened by new face Evie Nopere and closed by showgirl of the moment Achol Ayor, the model lineup featured both familiar and fresher faces on the runway. Cast by Anita Bitton, the rest of the lineup included the likes of Binx Walton, Irina Shayk, Liya Kebede, Leon Dame, Selena Forrest, Malick Bodian, Mariacarla Boscono, Maty Fall, Rebecca Longendyke, Libby Bennet and Saskia de Brauw.

Head to the gallery above to check out more of the collection.