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Joseph AW15, Womenswear, Dazed, White, Fur
Anna Cleveland backstage at Joseph AW15Photography Chloé Le Drezen

Joseph AW15

Cloaked in calmness – models enswathed in hard felts and soft silks leave behind UV footprints

Initial reaction:

Otherworldly creatures land in the basement of a London car park, leaving UV footprints, plumes of space-like dust, silver foil blankets and a sense of calm behind them.

How they wore it:

Untreated natural fabrics, wools, furs and silks softly draped the body in ecru, beige, grey and khaki, like homely blankets and soft scarves. Models wore cleated-sole outdoor sandals with velcro straps and thick woolly ankle socks for added comfort – it was quickly made clear what Joseph’s AW15 woman was all about. “It’s a personal thing. I wanted to be cocooned and protected, and [wanted] things to feel very organic and soft. It’s probably going against a lot of things that felt austere. I wanted things to feel cozy and familiarity was important. For a lot of the fabrics, we were looking at blankets, and I took a lot of old blankets and worked them into the collection, so the cuts are very, very simple,” creative director, Louise Trotter explained.

Disrupting femininity:

Guests were lead down into the basement of the Soho car park, where foil blankets were handed to them for warmth and the room was instilled with the comforting smell of musk (courtesy of the brand’s collaboration with luxury scent makers 12.29). “As always, I look to the opposite of things, so I also did a lot of work on what the contrast of that [soft femininity] is,” said Trotter. “I discovered this amazing sculptor Robert Morris. His work was incredibly feminine even though it was made out of industrial felt, and that was the idea of this deconstructed femininity. That was kind of the thing that I was going back to, something that felt deconstructed and quite masculine but then something that felt incredibly feminine. Those two things really drove the collection – the hardness of felt against the softness of the silks and cashmeres.”