Nostalgic modernity via rural Russia. Block prints took on grass green and sunshine yellow colours, like vast landscapes sectioned into fields, as the designers applied their streamlined sportswear influences and crisp, clean 90s aesthetic to long, buttoned farmer's wives skirts, hand-embroidered wooden beaded tops and pool slider sandals. "We wanted it to be super fresh, clean and modern but still have that homeliness. You shouldn't be scared to wear it, it should be your friend, rather than be like 'woah' – something you can relate to as a human being rather than sort of otherworldly things," Lowell Delaney explained after the show.
Normal is the new special:
Kim Trager and Lowell Delaney - who met during their BA at Central Saint Martins and launched their label for SS13 – looked to the normalcy of everyday objects like woven plastic seating for their on-schedule LFW debut, where precise pleat accents took their cue from window blinds. "I think at a point when there's so much and we spend so much all the time, and images and every kind of information is being shoved down our throats, whether we like it nor not, it is a natural human response to retreat," Delaney commented on being drawn to the normal and to countryside calm. "I was reading this article yesterday about how the current generation is against taking drugs and drinking alcohol – the cool thing is to be sober. It's like it's okay to slow down, not having to jump all over everything all the time. I think that's what we were feeling."
The pared-down mood also contained a sense of whimsy: restrained pieces were covered in almost childlike, no-fuss food prints with fruits and oysters, and the oyster motif was echoed in white frills on tailored trousers and jackets.