Bauhaus romanticism with a hint of perversion. Miuccia did a volte face to last season's Insta hit faces. These were latently sensual clothes that you could see lounging around in Otto Dix's paintings in the Weimar period.
Underneath it all:
Underneath the sheer organza dresses accented with fur were geometric printed y-fronts. They were a surprisingly boyish touch. As though a guy you had a mad crush on had flashed you inexplicably.
As our invitations suggested, womenswear was Act 2 – with menswear Act 1 in January. The showspace was covered in thick felt – perhaps a nod to Germany’s own art provocateur Joseph Beuys – and fences covered in chains. If last season was all about surface, then this season was about the mood that simmered beneath it all, what went on behind the soundproofed box.
Models walked to a live orchestra, led by conductor Francesco Bossaglia, playing pieces by early 20th century German composer Kurt Weill from Lars von Trier films with vocals by Barbara Sukowa, It was deliberately jarring with the terse clothes in the show.
Stand out looks:
‘Sheerling’: sheer pieces with fur worked into them as though Miuccia was going for the maximum of all contrasts. Then there were the shearling jackets and coats in a palette of marigolds, deep purples and gold metallics. Miuccia made even the deliberately seedy and off-putting geometrics – like curtains or upholstery fabrics – look covetable.
How they wore it:
With severe slicked-back hair and silk neck ties that looked almost like whoever was walking with these women held them by a decorative noose to stop them from escaping.