Fashion East AW14

LIAM HODGES

Initial reaction:

Hodges called it a “British culture clash”, except this time the spot light was on the aftermath; the roadies, who prepare to stow away the now-absent band’s instruments.

How they wore it:

Underground industrial rockers are encircled by thick black gaffer tape and weighted down in heavy steel-toe boots, functional boiler-suits held together with thick stitching and a jacket and waistcoat made out of the same tape.

Left us wondering:

All that’s left of the performance are the hard-cases and ripped set-lists, which stow the musical evidence of a show that may, or may not, have just happened.

Liam Hodges shares his AW14 collection film below:

ROXANNE FARAHMAND

Initial reaction:

Menacing post-human racer gangs lounging threateningly on an open top vehicle.

Stand out looks:

Handmade leather and metal pieces accompanied grey lycra that skimmed the skin like modern plated armour, thick indigo jeans sat atop Nike Air Max trainers and heavy knuckledusters rested on knees.

Unexpected details:

Torsos tattooed like sponsored race car shells and heads shaved in intricate tribal designs like the print decals that adorn the vehicle’s body.

TOM RYLING

Initial reaction:

Anarchy in American sportswear: digital printed bandits in thick balaclava’s cut away at eye level gave the models little chance for expression bar a piercing gaze.

Boy meets girl:

Wisps of feminine sexuality poked through in soft chiffon spliced skirts.

Unexpected details:

Blood red splatter graffiti on jackets and trousers lent a butchers vibe: Ryling comes from more of a multi-artistry point of view than strictly fashion.

NICOMEDE TALAVERA

Initial reaction:

Eighties sportswear cleaned up, slick and polished.

References:

Inspired by Nigel Shafran’s Teenage Precinct Shoppers as well as Sylvie Fleury’s Cuddly Paintings. Heavy riffs on eighties sportswear “garish” detailing – high neck zipped sports jackets and flared split-front trouser hems featuring chevron graphics of opposing colour.

Unexpected details:

Black shearling, unshaved leather and patent pig skin, which at times draped as aprons, gave the collection a distinct and exciting futuristic edge.

MASSIMO CASAGRANDE

Initial reaction:

What appears to be a clean cut collection of shirts quickly reveals the hidden twists of its tailoring; an asymmetrical disappearing pocket is cut to precision.

Innovation:

Unexpected details for a shirt-only collection: one shirt was painted in black silicone, others were inspired by bubble wrap and concrete.

Collaborations:

A collaboration with sculptor Stephen Morgan led to the innovative embellishments of rubber, silicone and silk screen.