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Acne Womenswear S/S12

Designer Jonny Johannsen made a sartorial statement with bold colour blocking on big silhouettes and tough edgy tailoring

Stalking down the mirrored runway to a pounding soundtrack, the Acne models platformed the Spring Summer 12 collection as being all about the oversized silhouette and bold colour blocks. Greens, blues, blacks and creams all came through in a very strong style, garments both juxtaposing and contrasting each other. There was a tough sense to the tailoring, felt through rougher textures in the fabrics of some pieces, again though set against softer silks for that contrasting element. This collection was definitely about excess in some areas, although, as ever with Acne, it was still incredibly considered.

Proportions were blown right up, with huge wide collots in bright orange a fitting example. The oversized fish tail parka in rich mustard was another edition of this volume, a shimmering vinyl loose ruffle skirt in red and a voluminous cape sleeve kimono-esque black cotton smock also carried on the same story. A denim biker jacket was bleached out and embellished with stars and stripes emblems, a cropped boxy jacket was cut through with star detailing, long panelled evening coats came up in rigid light blue denim, reaching almost to the floor and a super wide trouser featuring pleating all round the waist firmly cemented this big is better feel.

Dazed Digital: What was behind this seasons collection?
Jonny Johannsen:
We wanted the collection to almost feel like it came out of a dressing up box, that mix and match and collage mentality is definitely seething that we liked and were referencing this season. Elements that don’t necessarily appear t go together at first, but have a real connection, or colours and shapes, and again sizes. That feeling that something is big but you wear it anyway and it actually looks great.

DD: What inspired the bold colour blocks?
Jonny Johannsen: The colours were all mainly inspired by Marrakech after I trip I took there. I was also thinking about Sex and the City and the colours that come through from that aspect of it. I was thinking about the colours and the inspiration and how a Stockholm girl would react to them. I was asking myself 'could she do it?'

DD: There felt like there was a much more feminine feel to this collection. Was that a conscious decision?
Jonny Johannsen: It's always a balance between masculine and feminine, I also go back and forth between the two. One season perhaps I will feel that the season before I went too far one way or the other so I try and pull it back.

DD: Where did the American motifs come from?
Jonny Johannsen: The USA influence really comes from my childhood. As I was growing up it was really when Europe became super obsessed with American culture. All the films we were watching were american, the muci we were listening to, even the food we were eating.