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Robert Geller Womenswear S/S12

At Pier 59, the NYC designer showed off big hats, black leather trousers, wooden necklaces, frayed tailoring and his Common Projects shoe collaboration

There were quite a few different sartorial ingredients in Robert Gellers' S/S12 collection. We saw big hats, black leather trousers, wooden necklaces and frayed tailoring. The mishmash of styles worked in the sense that, perhaps, this in itself was a direction. Geller, celebrating his tenth collection, has no need to conform and, instead, set out to explore and invent a new male proportion and silhouette. Such an endeavour needs to be encouraged and many of the pieces we saw on Saturday evening, like the two tone sweat, the mustard yellow bomber jacket and the superb Common Projects shoe collaboration, were spot on. Mainly focused on beige, grey, back and blue, Geller let the fabrics and cuts do the talking, and everyone  at Pier 59 listened carefully...

Dazed Digital: What was your main inspiration and the red thread going through the collection?
Robert Geller:
I was looking at the male silhouette and I wanted to open it up a bit more. I put it together thinking about Bowie and Berlin, that easiness and a slight feeling of androgyny, even though I don't like that word. A bit of romance, I suppose.

DD: Can you expand on the silhouette you talk about?
Robert Geller:
Yeah there were tighter trousers with oversized tops and trousers made bigger with three pleats on the front, worn with small T-shirts.  

DD: Daring with black leather trousers in a Summer collection...
Robert Geller:
I know, but you have to do it, right! We deliver this in January, not in the summer time, so it's not necessarily that warm...

DD: Is there a piece that sums up the collection for you?
Robert Geller:
The second look, the casual jacket with frayed seams.  It looks cool but is super comfortable. You can through that in the corner, pick it up and put it on... it'll still look the same!

DD: Tell me about the shoes, the Common Projects collaboration...
Robert Geller:
We've been working with them for about four seasons now. They're really good friends of mine...