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Dior Homme Menswear S/S12

Kris Van Assche showed loose tailoring, hats and clever button details in cream, white, brown and black shades

Kris Van Assche launched into another suave S/S collection for the Parisian powerhouse on Saturday afternoon. Back at last season's show venue, Van Assche focused on light and smooth shades such as cream, white and brown. There were a few all-black looks, and a final section of greyish blue and, er, blueish grey shades. The tailoring was loose and comfortable, using cropped trousers to draw the attention to the well-cut jackets.

But more than the cut it was the detailing of the jackets that attracted attention. Instead of buttons, Kris displayed key rings as a closing mechanism for the jackets. The back of the pieces were also sliced open, almost making them reversible from back to front. Like last season, Dior went for black felt hats and with all the brown leather details on belts, neck lines and collars, the models almost looked like Dior Homme inner-city cowboys. Voluminous shirts, pleated coats and leather T-shirts also impressed.  

Dazed Digital: What was your starting point for this collection?
Kris Van Assche:
It's really about this dialogue between our heritage and know-how of the atelier and real life. The five first looks were about showing how we study clothes and how we make them in toile first, the work in progress and levels of research. It was also about showing that a couture house can make clothes for everyday life with all out movement. 

DD: Is that where the loose fitted stuff comes in?
Kris Van Assche:
Yeah but all really balanced, there's nothing too excessive. I've done oversized coats in the past, this time I wanted it to be more balanced and comfortable.

DD: Tell us about the button detailing, they look like key rings...
Kris Van Assche:
I took those from really official military uniforms. They have gold buttons on the outside and these on the inside. So my jackets are the other way around and you can turn them around if you prefer the normal button. 

DD: Do you have a fave piece in the show?
Kris Van Assche:
This white suit jacket, it has two hidden buttons and the one at the top so you can close it. I like it when you can't really tell if it's a suit jacket or a sportswear piece, kind of elegant and laid back at the same time...