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Patrik Ervell Menswear A/W11

Army-inspired outerwear dominated Ervell's NYC marvellous collection before black leather and boiler suits took over

Patrik Ervell today confirmed his status as one of the hottest menswear designers in New York with his focused Autumn Winter collection on Saturday. In a fully wearable and modern 21st century urban aesthetic, it was a crash course in how to subtly reference military uniforms and army details. Ervell's standard bomber jacket shared the stage with M65 coat and a US Army officer jacket. Slim monochrome tailoring prevailed throughout, some of which came belted. Cropped jackets dominated but Ervell also showed a few coats, one of which was over sized. The final section was characterised by boiler suits and leather, and the final outfit nicely combined the two! Except for a yellow hood underneath a coat, there wasn't much colour. A beige coat and a blue abstract camo print were the two main contrast shades in he midst of Ervell's black and white victory parade.

Dazed Digital: Congratulations, great show. Are you happy?
Patrik Ervell: Yes, I am, for the first time actually...

DD: What was the general idea behind the show?
Patrik Ervell: I collect military garments and I found a night camouflage jump suit from the 1960s. It's completely black, all the hardware is black. That was the starting point, garments that have to perform a specialised function.

DD: So the print was a night camo?
Patrik Ervell: The print was a printed silk, but yeah, it looked a bit camouflage in a way...

DD: Tell me about the cropped grey jacket in wool, also army-inspired?
Patrik Ervell: Yeah, it's a US Army officer jacket from World War II. I do it quite often, I like developing styles that become part of the brand's vocabulary. 

DD: Is there a piece that stands out for you?
Patrik Ervell: The hand printed silk bomber!

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