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Anthony Vaccarello Womenswear S/S11

The up and coming Paris-based designer takes us to an imaginary poolside where sensual femmes slink about in trippy light

It's quite a mouthful recalling Anthony Vaccarello ('s origins - born to Italian parents, raised and educated in Brussels and now living and working in Paris - but perhaps it's a mix of all three of those country's fashion stereotypes that makes Vaccarello a well-deserved rising star on what is an unforgiving Paris Fashion Week schedule for the young designer. The raw sex appeal of the Italian female icons he admired as a child, the rigorous thought process instilled from his Belgian education (as well as his love of black) and the unadulterated chicness from his present Parisian home all came together again for S/S 11.

If the last season was an excercise in strict Art Deco-inspired lines, the tension is slightly loosened up for the summer for a series of dresses and swimsuits where fluidity is never fully let go of due to some ingenious hidden metal structures and where the negative space exposing the flesh is just as important as the actual garments covering the body. A vaguely tropical-inspired pattern is introduced through a faded print as well as through sheer and opaque play embroidery as well as punctured as raised devore on elastic. As the ensembles trooped out, they were bathed in a light installation created by the directing duo Fleur and Manu, that drew lines and shadows across their bodies and you get the feeling that Vaccarello wanted to wash the audience with an impression of his summer sizzlers and send his girls poolside bathing in moonshine, searching for something mysterious in the air. We spoke to the up and comer about his status as a Parisian fashion hot commodity.

Dazed Digtal: What was the starting point of the collection?
Anthony Vaccarello:
I always want to make a continuity from the last season and to make sure it's recognisable.  I wanted a sort of sensual graphicism - it's always got those sharp lines.  With the draping and construction I want people to ask how he was able to do that. There's a tension that always exists in my clothes.
I also like the story of a woman who has been out all night long and she's on the beach at 5am in the morning and the trees reflect a dark light with a hint of colour because the light is still very very dim.  

DD: What was the idea behind the light projection?
Anthony Vaccarello:
I wanted to make it bit more special. The bulk of the collection is black and I wanted to express that early morning light I was talking about. I found an image from Space Odyssey 2001 when the light reveals itself in a certain way and I worked with the video directors Fleur and Manu to make the projection.

DD: How has the Anthony Vaccarello woman changed?
Anthony Vaccarello:
She's more sensual and she's less strict and more effortless, a real girl who can wear jersey dresses!