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David Koma Womenswear S/S11

Cut-out details on dresses with contrasting panels add a playful edge to the thoroughly feminine collection

PhotographyMorgan O'Donovan

Inspired by the Russian ballet, Georgia-born David Koma used contrasting panels of black patent leather and python skin to rework the classic skater skirt shape in his S/S '11 collection. Metallic fabrics added an edge to the Central St Martins graduate's wholly feminine dresses and flared skirts in pale lemon or creamy white - whilst shimmering gold plating and leather sparkled on side-split skirts and cut-out detailing on dresses broke up the symmetry. Blocks and thick diagonal stripes in monochrome featured on blazer jackets and two-tone pencil skirts, whilst gold belts flared out from the waist as mini-bustles.

Dazed Digital: What were your inspirations for S/S11? 

David Koma: Growing up in Saint-Petersburg, I spent a lot of time visiting  Mariinsky Theather and this season I returned to my childhood memories  and love for the Russian Ballet, in particular Tchaikovsky’s ‘’Swan Lake’’. The whole idea was to show  the contrast perceptions of a ballerina – the physically and emotionally strong woman in a fragile frame. For vertical and linear arrangements in the collection, I referred to cubist artist Fernand Leger and his use of graphic lines and shadows.

DD: How was this story told through the collection?

David Koma: It was my interpretation of a modern love story.  I just wanted to show the transition from Odette to Odile in a personal way. I started with powder sheer tones  and then moved onto graphic  monochromic black and white. Inserting pale yellow to introduce the richness of gold which led into long sheer chiffon dresses, raw python skin, rouched as belts around the waist, metal embellishment imitating python scales, both  in gold and hematite.

DD: Tell us about your fabrics and choices behind these?

David Koma: This season I experimented with much softer fluid fabrics merging contrasting textures such as chiffon against python skin and metal against sheer. Wool and organza allowed me to achieve the sculptural silhouettes in a very light way.   

DD: What is your favourite piece from the collection?

David Koma: Piano teeth black and white dress.

DD: The shoes and accessories really complimented the collection who did you

collaborate with for this?

David Koma:This season I collaborated with Mawi for the jewelry producing knuckle dusters and bracelets and Alain Quilici for the shoes. 

DD: What was it like showing as part of `NEW GEN for the first time?

David Koma: It was an amazing experience, I really enjoyed it. BFC and Topshop have been really supportive in many different ways.

DD: The music really supported the story of your collection who do you work with on


David Koma: Benjamin Esser and frYars. I worked with Benjamin for the second time and he is amazing!