It’s not every day you see Grace Jones at fashion week, let alone at the menswear shows, but the powerhouse musician was the perfect guest for Michael Rider’s Celine. Over the course of six decades, her chameleonic style has leant heavy on androgyny (practically the most famous image of her is her wearing a suit), so who better to ring in a new era of menswear? In a charcoal double-breasted suit with cigarette trousers, sunglasses, a bowler hat and boots with gradient grey tips, Jones sat beside Mark Ronson, who similarly opted for all black. A Celine double-act, you could say.

The SS27 show, Rider’s menswear debut, was a melting pot of contrasts, colour and outright whimsy. Parachute trousers, tasselled headgear and worn-in Reeboks were shown alongside second-skin tops with exaggerated shoulder pads. Rust flares, steel-toe boots and turquoise trousers bedecked in glinting crystals all made for a rollicking first outing.

The collection swung between the understated and no-holds-barred, leaving you eager to see the next look come bounding down the catwalk. The accessories were similarly off-kilter and unruly – Rider explored beaded belts, leather fringe cascading from jackets and visors dripping with chains that swayed with every step. Through the creative director’s lens, summer was elegant, yet still brimming with personality. “Summer is a chance to see places you’ve never seen, or go back to places you’ve been going your whole life,” read the show notes, with the collection reflecting freedom and impromptu sun-soaked trips.

Rider’s knack for draping and unexpected pairings is edging him closer to becoming the crowning jewel of PFW. Taking a much-loved and revered house like Celine, and building a world that feels familiar yet completely new, is no easy task. Sure, a cropped peacoat with ankle-grazing trousers, a fuchsia silk scarf or a top with an ice-blue cummerbund aren’t quite the way to dress for heat so sizzling you could fry an egg on the pavement, but Rider does it so well you can’t help but leave with Celine on the brain.

Scroll through the gallery above for our favourite looks from the show